Search Results

Continuum 3 Top Notes:  Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Nutmeg Blossom, Tarragon, Rosemary Heart Notes:  Jasmine, Fir, Geranium, Cyclamen, Carnation, Rose Base Notes:  Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Tonka Bean, Musk Phoenix Artisan Accoutrement’s Continuum 3 tips its hat to Gucci Nobile while tracing its lineage all the way back to Houbigant’s epoch-making Fougère Royale  of 1882. Its spine is the archetypal fougère triad—lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss—so the fragrance instantly feels floral, dry, and verdantly green. The overture is a brisk kiss of bergamot and lemon, sparkling like sunlight on cut crystal. Then the composition unfurls its most charming flourish: a playful duo of tarragon and rosemary. These herbs lend whispers of green licorice, cool mint, and peppery zest—much as tarragon enlivens Castle Forbes 1445—making the opening uniquely spirited. As the scent settles, the “second movement” emerges: jasmine, geranium, carnation, and rose step forward in elegant harmony, their petals warmed by the lingering herbs. Beneath them, oakmoss, patchouli, and a subdued musk evoke a moss-draped forest floor, while lavender drifts through it all, dusting the landscape with powdery barbershop nostalgia. The 1970s and ’80s marked a second Golden Age for the aromatic fougère—think Drakkar Noir  (1982), Azzaro Pour Homme  (1978), Polo Green  (1978), and, in later years, Tom Ford’s Beau de Jour  (2019). Continuum 3 stands comfortably among these icons. Its herb-bright overtone of tarragon and rosemary adds a touch of youthful sophistication that will delight collectors of classic greens. Here is a comparison of how Continuum 3 stacks up against some of the other venerable fougères of its time. Among the top notes, tarragon is the stand-out scent which truly sets it apart, with supporting roles played by rosemary and nutmeg. Like many fougères it has a floral heart, but the use of rose brings a unique softness which adds to its barbershop powdery quality. As with the others its base is deeply green, the quintessential Fougère hallmark. Continuum 3 Comparison Though it walks backward through time, Continuum 3 carries itself like a modern gentleman—polished yet spontaneous, steeped in tradition yet alive with whimsy. As it projects with impressive force, expect each spray to announce your presence and make a statement when you enter the room. As with all of Phoenix’ soaps, Continuum 3 employs the groundbreaking and beloved CK-6 formula, renowned for its blend of three Amazonian butters—bacuri, cupuaçu, and murumuru—with shea butter, cocoa butter, jojoba oil, and glycerin. The result is a voluminous, high-density lather with exceptional moisturization properties that offer excellent cushion, above-average slickness, and rock-solid stability. Aftershave Details Ingredients: Denatured Alcohol, White Sage Hydrosol, Essential & Fragrance Oils, Aloe Vera, Elemi Resin, Willow Bark Extract, Jerusalem Pine Resin, Benzoin Resin, Bayberry Extract Inspiration: Gucci Nobile (1988) Scent Strength: 9 Longevity: 9 Skin Food Breakdown Shave Soap Details Ingredients: Potassium Stearate, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoate, Aqua, Potassium Kokumate, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Shea Butterate, Potassium Castorate, Sodium Stearate, Potassium Cocoa Butterate, Potassium Avocadoate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuacu) Butter, Astrocaryum (Murumuru) Seed Butter, Platonia Insignis (Bacuri) Seed Butter, Parfum [Fragrance] Inspiration:  Gucci Nobile (1988) Lather Type: Textured Cushion: 9 Density: 8 Stability: 8 Slickness: 7 Scent Strength: 9 Longevity : 8 Skin Food Breakdown Purchase Continuum 3 Here

Melody and Zach Kent love to create. On the surface, one would think Moon is simply about creating soaps. But, to look deeper and to know Melody and Zach, one sees that Moon Soaps is about creating much more: experiences, feelings, and products which delight. While Melody is a storyteller who creates fragrances which transport the user to a place or emotion, Zach brings the true artisan spirit of craftsmanship, which makes every Moon product a work of intense quality. Some artisans rapidly roll out new scents and bases, but Moon moves with an intentionality and care drawn from its passion to provide only the best for its customers, while at the same time making time for its family. What’s clear is that Moon is a collaboration of two passionately artistic and skilled artisans who are staying true to their values of integrity, craft, and joy, to make something which they hope is truly special. They love what they do, and their products are worthy of love. Meet Melody and Zach... Q: In your chat with Marcus Klinger and Sarah Vincent—the Barbershop Duet—you said you “love products.” What does that phrase mean to you, and where does the passion come from? Melody: I have always loved skin care and bath products. Since I was really young, I still remember getting a bar of French vanilla soap. I would use it every day to make me feel good and uplift my spirit. It’s amazing what a little scent can do! Moving forward to today, I just love products.  I completely understand when a shave enthusiast has 200 shave sets. They are searching for that moment when they had discovered what a scent/ shave soap can do for you. Makes your skin feel and look better but can also teleport you to a good feeling/vibe. That’s what we try to do with Moon. When I say I “love products,” I mean I genuinely enjoy creating things that people use and connect with daily. From packaging and scent to performance and experience—every element matters to me. Seeing someone enjoy something we’ve created—that never gets old. Zachary: For me, it’s about creating. I love the process of making something with my hands that will be appreciated and bring joy to the user. Whether it’s a brush or a soap, I’m always thinking: is this something I’d be excited to use? Something I’d want to display on my countertop? Q: You’ve been making soap since 2008. How did things change when Zachary joined and you launched your first shave soap, Old School, in 2017? Melody:  I had started Moon as a way to stay home with my kids and create something that could bring in an income. My daughter was very young, so finding the time was challenging. I was making cold process bar soap, sugar scrubs and lip balms. Zack was tinkering around with making a shave soap with tallow he had rendered from his day job.  We had a holiday craft fair coming up and decided to make enough to sell. Well, we sold out the first day! It was supposed to be a one and done kinda thing, but we see now what happened! LOL Everything changed in the best way. It really was the beginning of Moon Soaps as most people know it now. Zachary:  I wanted to add a shave soap to our catalogue just to give the women shopping with us a gift option for the men in their lives. I had no idea that doing this would change our demographic so severely. Shaving related products now account for about 90% of our sales. Honestly, I could never have predicted this shift in our business. Q: Many artisans roll out new scents almost monthly, but Moon grows its catalog slowly and keeps scents in steady production. What drives that strategy? Do you ever release seasonals or revive retired scents? Melody:  We’re intentional about everything we do. Rushing to release a new scent every month just doesn’t suit our approach. We want every product to feel special, have a purpose, and be made with care. Plus, keeping our core scents consistently available gives our customers reliability—they can come back to a favorite any time. Zachary: We’ve never done a seasonal drop or a one-off scent due to the fact that the process takes a great deal of time and energy. I’ve always felt that if we commit fully to a product and get it to where we are really happy, why discontinue it after a limited run? We don’t make stuff just to keep up with trends or just to make a quick buck, that’s never been our way. I don’t like making someone feel pressured to buy “right now” or they will miss the chance. We may be in a situation pretty soon where we have to discontinue an older product to make room for a new one just to keep things manageable on our side. Hard to say right now. Q: Moon is known for long development cycles. Walk us through your fragrance-creation process: how do ideas surface, how do you test them, and how do you know a scent is ready? Melody:  Scent ideas usually come from something real—a feeling, a memory, a place, a movie or even a song, from there, we start building it with fragrance oils, essential oils, and aroma chemicals. I feel like I’m a storyteller. I want to take the user to a place or feeling. Kind of what a writer does in a book. We make a batch of shave soap with whatever shave soap recipe we want to use. Sometimes we create a new shave soap base. We tweak, and retest… It takes months. We look at our scent catalog as a whole. If the new scent doesn’t bring something new to the table, we don’t release it to market. We test for skin irritation, scent longevity, post shave feel etc. We want the customer to be thrilled with their decision to purchase a Moon product. We try to bring a little joy to the mundane task of shaving. Zachary:  Once it passes Melody’s tests (which isn’t easy), I use it in a full shave. If we both love it, and it performs across formats—soap, cream, splash—then it’s ready… to sit for several months to ensure fragrance reliability. To elaborate on Melody’s statement, our main core value as a business, in my opinion, is building trust with our customers. Customers need to trust that what we release is worth their time and attention and that we have fully vetted every aspect. Once the soap is ready, then we move on to getting the art together. Sometimes the pieces fit together right away, but usually it takes many drafts and tons of fine tuning. Moon Soaps is my all-time toughest graphic design client! Q: You’ve said the base has evolved, with Bixby and Santa Cruz showing where it’s likely to settle—for now. What qualities in the current base make you feel it’s close to optimal? Zachary:  The base we’re using now hits all the marks we care about—rich lather, slickness, cushion, and post-shave feel. It’s super easy to use and doesn’t require dialing in. We’re always listening to feedback, but right now we’re in a place where we feel confident it delivers a luxury experience without being finicky. Melody:  And importantly, it still aligns with our standards: ethically sourced ingredients, skin-loving properties, and a creamy consistency that makes shaving enjoyable. Q: Moon doesn’t yet offer EDTs, EDPs, balms, or pre-shaves. Why have you held off, and might we see any of these down the road? Melody:  We’re not against expanding, but we take our time. Each product we release has to be meaningful and meet our standards. Fragrance products like EDPs are on our radar, but they require different formulation and testing—especially for wear, longevity, and safety. Plus, we want really great packaging that speaks to our customers and is convenient to use. We hope to have them available soon… Zachary:  What Melody said… Q: Zachary’s handcrafted brushes are a hit. How did he start—was he self-taught? Who supplies your knots, and are there plans to expand the brush line? Zachary:  I’m entirely self-taught, yeah. I started turning handles in our garage just to make a brush I personally wanted to use. From there, it grew fast. The creative side of brush-making really hooked me—designing shapes, experimenting with resins, working with my hands. I try my best to create a brush that is different from everyone else’s. To do this I put a lot of emphasis on the blank itself. I like to do intricate glue-ups like herringbone patterns, segments, laminates, and cool dyes when possible. I have a million things going all the time so making handles more often than I’m doing now isn’t going to happen. Batches are usually 10-15 handles per drop every couple of months. I definitely have way more ideas than time! Q: Moon partners with retailers worldwide while you stay focused on family. What’s the toughest part of managing those relationships, marketing, and scaling the business all at once? Melody:  Every email, every restock, every decision takes time. We’re incredibly grateful to our retail partners, but managing expectations while protecting our brand’s integrity and staying present for our family is definitely the hardest part. We make everything from scratch and do all of our social media, customer service, graphic design. I’m always wanting to do more and grow Moon. I only want it to grow and be bigger and reach more people. We are really thrilled to be available worldwide! Zachary:  We never want to grow so fast that we lose what makes Moon special. So we’ve been careful with who we work with and how we expand. We hope to have more retailers in the future. Q: Since Old School debuted in 2017, how has the wet-shaving landscape changed? Where is it heading, and how will Moon adapt to keep growing? Zachary:  The scene’s gotten bigger and more diverse. There’s a wider appreciation now for craftsmanship in wet shaving. People are more educated, and they expect more—which is great. It pushes everyone to level up. Collaborations are a current fad for sure and one we’ve always said no to. Like we’ve said before, getting a new product to market is huge work. Getting more people involved in our creative process would be crazy! Melody:  Recently the community seems to have more micro wet shaving soap companies, with the help of AI for labels and off the shelf fragrance dupes. Everyone seems to be pushing out new shave soaps incredibly fast. Like we have said before, we are in it for the long game.  We’re adapting but staying true to who we are while still evolving. We’ll keep refining formulas, adding thoughtfully to the line, and staying connected to our community. Q: If you could deliver one message to every wet shaver—current or future—what would it be? Melody:  Keep doing whatever brings you joy! Zachary:  And support the makers. This community thrives because of the people behind the products. Whether it’s us or another artisan, when you support small businesses, you keep the passion alive. Melody & Zachary Kent TP Please visit Moon Soaps to see their full line of products. Moon Soaps can also be purchased at The Razor Company .

Alex Marshall is the kind of person to whom giving comes naturally. The son of a pastor, he grew up in small-town Indiana, where he was active in his church and community and after college joined the Tennessee National Guard, where he has now served for 13 years. After a decade spent honing his woodcraft, Alex began turning shave brushes in 2024, and they quickly gained popularity on Shave Dad and across the wet-shaving community for their beauty and performance. But while some artisans consider it enough simply to share their work, Alex looked for ways to give back to both his community and his country, launching an innovative program that donates a brush to an active-duty service member with every one he sells. His story is one of sacrifice, commitment, and generosity—one that deserves to be told. Q: Origins and craft – What first attracted you to woodworking, and how did you develop your skills? When did turning wood on a lathe become the springboard for Marshall Made Woodworking?   A: Growing up, my dad was a pastor for 37 years, and the church was a huge part of my life. As a kid, I spent many weekends helping the men in the congregation with things like landscaping and small home repairs – through this I started to enjoy working with my hands. That early experience sparked a real interest in building and creating, and eventually, I knew I needed to find someone to learn from.   Thankfully, a church member and lifelong family friend named Dean Bardonner stepped in as that mentor. I’ve peppered him with questions for years, and he’s always been generous with his knowledge. He’s a true master woodworker, and I feel very lucky to have learned so much from him. Beyond Dean, I’ve also sought guidance from many incredible people in the trades over the years, and their help has been invaluable. I’ve never shied from asking for help, especially when someone offers it. For me, this has been my key to developing the woodworking skills I have today.   I set a goal in 2024 to start woodturning, and I jumped right in. By the end of January that year, I’d bought a used lathe and began working. I’ve been woodworking for over 12 years, but after turning my first bowl, I haven’t been able to stop – woodturning is very addicting! I worry a little about losing my other woodworking skills, but honestly, I’d be happy even if I did. Turning really boosted my ability to consistently sell my work, which now funds new tools and materials. Since I started, I’ve really focused on branding and marketing myself, and while I plan to refine my brand over time, I think I’m starting to gain recognition in my local area.   Q: Joy of creation  – What do you find most rewarding about bringing a piece to life with your own hands? A: I love transforming raw materials into finished products. The specific material doesn’t matter; as long as I can creatively develop it into a functional piece, I’m captivated. Finding materials with a story—an heirloom, a log from a homeowner’s tree, or an old timber from a home remodel—excites me even more. I find immense joy in returning a significant or sentimental piece to its owner in a new and improved state.   Q: Wet-shaving journey  – When did you start wet shaving, what drew you in, and what keeps you devoted to the ritual today? Can you tell us a bit about your own routine and some of the gear you use?   A: I've shaved daily for almost nine years. As an active duty member of the Tennessee Army National Guard, I must maintain regulatory grooming standards. Like many, I started with a can of Barbasol and a cartridge razor. However, about a year ago, I had an epiphany: I could make shaving brushes on my wood lathe. I tried my hand at turning some, and then I made my first brush sale on Etsy to Adam VanCamp from Yeole Strait N Strop. His deep passion forwet shaving sent me down the rabbit hole.   As I messaged Adam more, I realized how great the wet shaving community was. He introduced me to others, and I've connected with them consistently. After I joined Shave Dad, that was it—it's all I ever do on Facebook anymore!   My daily routine begins with a 4:30 AM wake-up and a splash of hot water on my face. I almost always start with Proraso pre-shave cream to awaken my senses, then I choose from my variety of soaps. I regularly cycle through about eight shaving brushes and six safety razors. I recently acquired five straight razors and started incorporating those regularly as well. Compared to some wet shaving enthusiasts, I don't have extensive software and hardware, but I have enough to keep it interesting. So far, all my safety razors have come from antique stores, and I've really enjoyed the handful of Gillettes I've found. Now, I only look for shaving gear when I'm out shopping with my wife!   Q: Handle design essentials – In your view, which dimensions or design elements are truly critical to a shave-brush handle’s comfort and performance? Is there one feature that can make—or break—the brush?   A: I'll tread lightly with my opinion on this topic because I've found that everyone has their own preference for shaving brush designs; some are very specific and unique. But this makes brush making so exciting! I can make a brush that's attractive in every way for myself, and ten people will love it just the same. I can also make a brush that seems odd to me, and ten people will absolutely appreciate it for its uniqueness.   However, my personal view has remained somewhat consistent since I started making and using a variety of brushes. I like a brush with curves that allow for a very comfortable grip in the palm. I like both longer and stubby handles, so length doesn't necessarily matter. As long as it has an area to rest my thumb and index finger, and I can feel the base resting in the crotch of my hand, I can dig it.   Q: Material selection – How do you choose your woods and other materials, and do you have any personal favorites or “signature” species? A: I only use hardwoods for my wooden brushes; I believe they're essential for long-term durability. Exotic species are even better for their durability and character. As I mentioned, I prioritize wood with a story, so I’ll search for my own logs and branches vs. buying from the store. Beyond that, I'll use any species I can find to make a cool brush. Some of my favorite wood handles have come from mahogany, oak, walnut and old-growth pine.   I recently started casting my own resin blanks. I have much to explore here, but it's been a lot of fun. I hope to significantly elevate my brush designs over time, as the possibilities with resin are endless.   Q: Perfect loft – What’s your process for setting the knot and dialing in the ideal loft height?   A: I used to set my knots with epoxy, but I quickly realized that was too permanent. While epoxy works, replacing a knot requires drilling it out and cleaning the socket with hand tools or a rotary tool. It’s too easy to damage the brush this way. Since then, I've used silicone to set my knots. Silicone is waterproof and provides a strong hold, yet it allows for easy removal and cleanup of residue if you need or want to replace the knot.   I generally maintain a consistent loft height when setting knots, but I'm open to varying it. Depending on the knot, I might set it deeper if it lacks backbone. This is likely a personal preference for those highly attuned to these details, but I've never received a complaint when setting knots at my go-to loft height.   Q: Care tips – What maintenance routine do you recommend for keeping a wooden brush in top shape for years?   A: Some claim wooden brushes don't hold up well against water. While wood can be susceptible to moisture, wooden brushes can last a lifetime with proper maintenance.   After receiving your wooden brush, I recommend applying mineral oil or a wood conditioning product weekly or biweekly, depending on usage. I keep a small bottle of mineral oil under my sink; I rub it over the entire handle and let it sit overnight. Most times, the handle absorbs the majority of the oil. If some remains the next morning, I wipe it off, and the brush looks brand new. Stabilized wood makes the handle even more durable and extends the brush's lifespan. Of course, you'll also want to rinse all shaving soap from the knot and dry the bristles and handle after each use.   Q: Brush-for-service program – You donate a brush to an active-duty service member with every purchase. What sparked that initiative? What’s been your experience with the military?   A: As an active service member and recent wet shaving enthusiast, I wanted to provide other service members with wet shaving gear. The “Buy One, Gift One” idea emerged because I struggled with giving a lot of my work away. I'm unsure why, but exchanging money for my products has always made me feel uncomfortable, most likely due to being my harshest critic. My wife, an avid supporter of my craftsmanship, told me I needed to sell my product with confidence! So, I thought gifting a brush with each sale would satisfy both my need to earn a profit and my desire to give back. I've served in the Army National Guard for 13 years, joining after college. I've loved the experience, traveling to great places, participating in cool training (like clearing houses and shooting sniper rifles with The 5th Special Forces Group), and learning a lot about leadership. Giving back to the armed forces was an obvious choice.   Q: Military wet shavers – Can you share a memorable story from a recipient? How prevalent is wet shaving in today’s armed forces?   A: The most memorable part of gifting these brushes is reading the bios about the recipient’s military service. I understand most roles within the National Guard, but it's particularly neat to read about service members from other branches. Some of their jobs sound incredible, like working on submarines, ships, and aircraft. Ultimately, these service members are willing to do what it takes to keep their country and family safe—that's truly inspiring.   I recently gifted shaving brushes to a Lieutenant General, a Major General, and a Brigadier General. To my surprise, all three were wet shavers! The Lieutenant General's response was the best: “Wow man! This is a REAL man's gift! This is awesome!” That was a truly memorable experience.   I know plenty of wet shavers exist in the military, but unfortunately, I'm having a hard time finding them. It's proving more challenging than I thought, but thankfully, the more I spread the word, the more come out of the woodwork. If anyone wants to send me the contact information of a service member who wet shaves, I would be happy to add them to my recipient list!   Q: Looking ahead – What does the future hold for Marshall Made Woodworking? Where do you see the product line evolving next? Currently, you're on Etsy. Any plans for opening your own online store?    I work on a variety of woodworking projects, but turning wood is by far my favorite. Soon, I'll add hand-turned safety razors, lather bowls, and brush/razor stands to my Etsy shop. I'll also introduce resin shaving bowls to my product line, with experiments starting in July.   I plan to launch a website in 2026. Etsy works well for my current sporadic inventory, but once I can consistently produce more, I'll manage my own sales. My goal is to direct customers to one central location and control the website's management.   I also hope to collaborate with other artisans in this community. So, keep an eye out for a collaboration one day soon! Alex Marshall Visit Marshall Made Woodshop to view Alex's wares. A drop of new brushes will go live on Sunday 6/22/2025

There are a handful of voices that make the wet-shaving world feel like a true neighborhood, and Mark Szorady—beloved creator and host of the “Monday Morning Mailbag”—is one of them. Every week, Mark’s cheery greeting of “Hello Youtubers and wet shavers everywhere!”, with a steaming mug of coffee in hand, and an avalanche of viewer letters have turned Mondays from mundane to must-watch for thousands of shave enthusiasts around the world. Long before wet shaving, Mark was making readers laugh in print as the nationally syndicated cartoonist behind George and other puzzle features for King Features and DBR Media—a storyteller’s background that infuses every Mailbag with wit, warmth, and insight. Mark has tested countless pieces of shave gear – razors, soaps, splashes and more – and made over 1,800 review videos. When looking for guidance on how to build a lather, there are few wet shavers with more experience using the panoply of options in both hardware and software than Mark. Without further ado, here’s Mark… Rediscovering Wet Shaving Q: In one of your earliest YouTube videos—about eight years ago—you had just returned to double-edge (DE) shaving and were showing a Viking’s Blade butterfly razor. What sparked your renewed interest in the hobby, and was the 1957 Gillette you later featured (inherited from your father) the first DE razor you ever used? A: Let me start with some background. I was an electric razor shaver for many, many years.  My father would always tell me that the safety razor shave was the BEST shave. Well, I was unfamiliar with the process and held fast to my electric razor routine. After dad passed, I bought my parents’ home. Not only did I now own my parents’ house, I also had about 40 years of stuff in the basement, attic, etc. So, in trying to get things organized, I decided to first tackle the bathroom. While cleaning out the bathroom, I came across a box with Dad’s shaving gear. It contained his 1957 Gillette Silver Tipped Super Speed. It was in beautiful condition. It looked nearly brand new.  Anyhow, it was at that same time that I was looking to replace yet another electric razor. I had a box filled with old, worn out electric razors. I really did not want to buy another electric razor. I decided to give the safety razor shave a try. Instead of using my dad’s Super Speed razor, I decided to find a comparable safety razor that would allow me to learn the process. My logic was, if I didn’t like the process, I wouldn’t be able to blame dad’s razor.   I opted for the Vikings Blade TTO razor. I liked the look, the solid build, the fact that the razor blade end tabs were enclosed in the razor head, and the price. Their product page on Amazon had a lot of helpful information. Plus, it was Twist-To-Open. A safety razor with easy blade loading was a must. So, I started to learn the traditional wet shave process with the Vikings Blade Chieftain. It was also a rather fortuitous choice. The folks at Vikings Blade became the first major company to support my channel. Because of their support, I gained more experience with their different razors. Through Vikings Blade and viewers, I quickly learned about adjustable razors, three-piece razors, etc.   Once I felt I had enough experience using the Vikings Blade Chieftain (and, as it turns out, I LOVED the traditional wet shave), THEN I used my dad’s SuperSpeed razor. The Allure of the Hobby Q: What originally excited you about wet shaving, and why do you think it so often turns casual shavers into passionate enthusiasts? A: The hardware. There’s something about a well-made safety razor that just resonates with people. The weight, the material (stainless steel, bronze, brass, chrome plating, etc.), the gleaming finish. This also applies to shaving brushes. Some specialty artisan shave brushes like those form Wolf Whiskers are works of art. Plus, when both pieces of hardware, razors and brushes, are very well made they will last generations. So, I think there’s also that allure of being able to pass on to future generations some really beautiful razors and brushes. Additionally, there are so many choices when it comes to shave soaps and creams.  Artisans are everywhere offering some really top shelf products.  You can find any sort of scent.  The lathers these soaps and creams build are picture perfect! Like the stuff you see in classic movies. Finally, there’s a nostalgic quality to the traditional wet savage.  It’s a yearning to return to, even temporarily, a simpler time.  No batteries, no apps, no blinking lights.  Just a solid razor, a brush and some shave soap. Eight Years, 1,800 Videos Q: With more than 1,800 uploads, you may have tested more products than any other reviewer. How has the wet-shaving community evolved over those eight years, and are you still as passionate today as when you began? A: 1800? Is it really that many already? I guess that comes from my cartooning days in always meeting a deadline.  Many of those early videos are 4 or 5 minutes in length and edited in a very simple way. At the time I was learning about the traditional wet shave, I was also learning about how to edit video, audio, post to YouTube, etc. Through it all, the community was always there to lend a hand. Viewers not only contributed great info, tips, tricks, etc. on doing the traditional wet shave, many others were quite tech savvy and helped with setting up podcasts and other things. What Makes a Great Shave Soap? Q: From your experience, what qualities distinguish an excellent shave soap? A: I think it boils down to good skin food ingredients. Plus, elements that provide a smooth glide for the razor.  Artisan soap makers really know how to touch all those bases. Defining the Perfect Lather Q: What do you consider the hallmarks of an optimal lather—its appearance, texture, and function during the shave? A: Good body and density. A yogurty consistency. I like when I get those nice peaks that loop around like a Dairy Queen ice cream. I usually look for those qualities when building a lather. Again, does it offer cushion for protection and glide? Is there residual glide if you’re doing a little buffing and pick-ups with the razor? If the answer is Yes, then you’ve got a good one. Also, I’m amazed at how quickly a lather can be built with some artisan soaps. I mean, in almost no time at all, you’ve got a Boom! Lather! Common Lathering Pitfalls Q: What mistakes do beginners most often make when they first try to build a lather? A: The first mistake is not getting the proper shaving brush. When new wet shavers look for a brush, for some reason, low priced, low quality badger brushes get listed on Amazon searches. It happened to me and I had trouble making a lather. It was only when I switched to a synthetic brush that things really ramped up and improved. I always tell new wet shavers to get a good quality synthetic brush. They are sturdier and more forgiving when doing a bowl lather and face lather. Once you have the basics, then you can move to boar brushes, then to badger brushes. Badger brushes, especially, require a different routine when doing a face lather. I learned this from viewers. When using a badger brush for face lathering, a back and forth motion is preferred rather than pushing towards the skin to splay the hairs and move it in round, circular motions. That’s fine with synthetics.  Synthetics, as I mentioned, are forgiving in this area. Badger brushes require more finesse. Boar brushes are somewhere between synthetic and badger when it comes to technique, in my opinion. The other problem that new wet shavers sometimes run into is adding too much water when trying to build a lather. Use minimal water and then build from there. Add water as you go. You’ll see the volume of the lather increase while it maintains it’s nice, creamy consistency.  Your Step-by-Step Method Q: Could you walk us through your personal technique for building a lather, step by step? A: I always get a good, generous brush load. I really swirl the brush in the puck or tub. With some shaving soaps, you may not need to swirl as much as others. Regardless, get a somewhat damp brush, swirl to load the soap onto the brush, and be generous. Then when doing a bowl lather, I simply add a little bit of water as the lather starts to develop. As I always say, add water, rather than add soap. The lather will start somewhat pasty, but keep adding water little by little, and you’ll see this wonderful, creamy consistency emerge. The “Szorady Shift” Explained Q: You’ve mentioned the “Szorady Shift” on your show—what is it, and how did you develop it? A: During one video review, I happened to mention that I heard a noticeable tone drop as the lather came to the point of completion. I figured this was due to the increase in volume causing this tone drop. Viewer Jimi V mentioned that he also listened for this tone drop when building a lather (bowl lathering). He coined the phrase “The Szorady Shift” for this tone drop. Again, it’s an example of how viewers contribute in an original and organic way to the channel.  Choosing a Bowl and Brush Q: What advice would you give a new wet shaver on selecting a lather bowl and brush? A: As mentioned before, get a good quality synthetic brush if you’re just starting out. $20.00 will get you a good synthetic brush. When it comes to shaving bowls, regardless of material it’s constructed from (ceramic, stoneware, stainless steel, plastic, etc.), make sure it has some raised areas/ridges in the interior to give a little bit of resistance to the brush. This will help develop a lather more quickly. If the bowl doesn’t have raised ridges or bumps but instead offers a little bit of a rough texture, that’ll work, too. A smooth interior on a shaving bowl is fine, too. But those raised ridges, bumps, etc. really help. Inside Your Daily Kit Q: Away from the camera, what does your own shave kit look like? Which soaps, razors, splashes, balms, and brushes are personal favorites—and do you lean toward mild or aggressive razors, hard soaps, croaps, creams, badger or synthetic brushes? A: I lean toward mild razors. The Timeless Bronze Razor is a favorite. Any of the Chieftain Razors form Vikings blade are also welcome in the shave den. I love the Rex Supply Envoy. Phoenix Shaving’s Ascension razors are awesome, double open-comb, adjustable, and made from premium materials! Their Meta4 razors are wonderful mild and have a great vintage vibe. You cannot beat the Muhle R-89 for a mild shave. This one is perfect for beginners. Any vintage Superspeed (silver tip and blue tip) are must haves!  Some of my early favorite shaves came about due to the Gillette three-piece Tech razor. When I came back to the traditional wet shave, these Gillette Techs were only five or ten bucks. Now, due to their popularity and the increased interest in the traditional wet shave, they are somewhat pricier. Yaqi is coming on strong with some very well made stainless steel razors, although they tend toward the medium aggressive side. I also love the Pearl shaving razor offerings. The L-55 is a nice razor at a great price point. Looking Ahead Q: You’re a beloved voice in the wet-shaving community. What future plans or goals do you have for your channel and your role in the community? A: Thanks for the really nice words. Actually, I didn’t plan any of this. I’ve been flying by the seat of my pants since the channel started. It all happened and came together due to the wonderful generosity and contributions of viewers and the wet shaving community. I’m going to keep doing what I’m doing and let the viewers guide me with their insight and input.  Parting Wisdom Q: After years of experimentation, what single lesson do you value most and wish every wet shaver knew? A: I say it with every shave, “30 degrees, a light touch, let the razor do all the work, gentlemen.” One of the most satisfying emails/comments I receive is from new wet shavers who have said that this single phrase, repeated in their head while doing a shave, helped them to learn the traditional wet shave. That’s very gratifying. Mark Szorady Visit Mark's Youtube channel Shop with our partners

Ariana & Evans hosted a meet-up on June 7 at their showroom and production facility in Ansonia, Connecticut. I arrived a little late—the weather on the drive up was less than kind—but the moment I stepped inside I felt like Charlie walking into Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. The vibe was warm and convivial, almost like a house party, and every surface was stacked with gorgeously packaged soaps and splashes. I was a kid in a candy store. Before I could take it all in, the chief “candy maker” himself, Peter Charkalis, bounded over with an outstretched hand. His easy warmth made it seem as though we were old friends—family, even. Still beaming, Peter whisked my family and me off on a tour. In the break room we found none other than rising superstar Doug Layne of Adopted Acres. Few artisans have created so much buzz so quickly: in just five months Doug has rolled out hits like Mint Cherry Barbershop, Homestead Barbershop, Emerald Leprechaun, Rookie Card, Texas Spirit, Pineapple Under the Sea, and Royal Bloom. He may be a rookie in soapmaking, but he has the nose of a master, blending scent notes as if he’s been doing it his whole life. Peter showing off the Break Room...and Doug Layne! Ever the fanboy, I had to get a photo with Doug—and I couldn’t leave without scooping up a set of Royal Bloom, an intoxicating blend of geranium, lemon, pear, Bulgarian rose, peony, oud, vanilla, cashmere wood, and patchouli. Doug Layne from Adopted Acres Right beside Doug stood Joe Dean of Subtle Art Soap, his table lined with an enticing array of creations. We chatted briefly about his years in the Coast Guard and how a casual passion for wet shaving had blossomed into a full-fledged business. One set in particular caught my eye: Following Seas. Its label features a vintage nautical chart from Joe’s own collection, and the fragrance itself is a fresh, blue-aquatic blend of bergamot, grapefruit, jasmine, geranium, rosemary, lavender, musk, sandalwood, and patchouli. Resistance was futile—I promptly added the set to my haul. Joe Dean from Subtle Art Soaps Peter couldn’t wait to show us the rest of the operation. After weaving through the storeroom, we stepped into the beating heart of Ariana & Evans—Peter’s design laboratory. Peter's Design Lab This is where the magic happens. He spoke of how he and his daughter, Thalia, spend long days here researching scent profiles and refining ingredient blends—cheering each other on, swapping notes, and offering honest feedback. As he spoke about Thalia, the pride and affection he feels for her practically radiated from him. From there, Peter led us to another essential part of the alchemy—the soap kettles! The Soap Kettles On our way back through the break room, we bumped into another community star—Mike from Long Island Shaving. Mike from Long Island Shaving One of the day’s highlights was meeting up with my good friend Mark Albert—whom I first met on Badger & Blade—at the event. Here we are, poised at the register with armfuls of goodies, while Thalia rings us up and graciously snaps the photo. Mark Albert who authored the ShaveSplash Feature "Confessions of a Stovetop Soapmaker" Afterward, Peter kicked off a raffle that sent at least a dozen prizes—soaps, accessories, and more—into eager hands. Fortune smiled on me: I took home a B1 Lancer razor. Peter starts the raffle The day flew by, and I didn’t speak with nearly as many attendees as I’d hoped. I did manage a quiet moment with Peter’s wife, Evelyn, who shared a few heartfelt words about her devotion to Ariana & Evans and its mission. Her sincerity, kindness, and warmth spoke louder than any words: that everyone at Ariana & Evans approaches their work with love and a deep appreciation for the community. And although some may think that the heart of Ariana & Evans is back in Peter’s lab, or in the soap kettles, or even spread out as seen here on the table in the main display room.... Main Display Table The real heart of Ariana & Evans is here... Peter & Thalia It’s in Peter, Thalia, and Evelyn. It’s in the love they feel for each other. It’s in the love they have for their craft and the wet shaving community. When the festivities wrapped up, a small, intrepid group followed Peter, Thalia, and Evelyn across the street to a cozy wine bar for dinner and story-swapping. It was the perfect capstone to a day of discovery, camaraderie, and most of all, heart. I headed home feeling richer for the experience—and with a respectable haul of loot to prove it. My Haul Thank you Peter, Thalia, Evelyn, and the entire Ariana & Evans team. To see everything Ariana & Evans has to offer, click here .

Peter Charkalis is living the life many wet shavers only dream about.  What began like it does for so many of us—with a simple Shave of the Day photo—has grown into one of the most adventurous, edgy, and sought-after brands in the wet shaving world. But Ariana & Evans didn’t emerge overnight, and Peter didn’t build it alone. His wife, Evelyn, and daughter, Thalia, have been with him every step of the way, through years of hard work, trial and error, hits and misses. The road has been long, but the trajectory has always pointed skyward. With a blend of savvy innovation and artistic boldness, Ariana & Evans continues to push the envelope of what’s possible in artisan grooming. I had the chance to catch up with Peter to talk about his journey, explore the philosophy behind the brand, and get a glimpse of what’s next. Here’s Peter… Q: Ariana & Evans has taken a unique approach by segmenting the traditional tub soap market into distinct price tiers—K2e for entry-level, Ultima for premium, and Legacy for ultra-premium. Has this strategy been effective? Are buyers aware of the differences, and has it helped expand your reach? A: Actually, our shaving cream is our entry level offering.  This has worked exceptionally well for us. In business, you want to 'touch' as many people as possible. We are now able to do this with unique offerings and a targeted pricing strategy. I believe we are uniquely positioned to offer products irrespective of price range now. I don't believe our offerings are too difficult to digest at all. I measure this by the success each base has been able to achieve . The Danielle Maullu line is our ultra premium line and has honestly done so much better than I ever dreamed possible. Has this strategy been effective? Yes. Our sales have literally doubled and has been on this track consistently since November. Our brand is unique and compelling to new wet shavers as well as seasoned veterans who expect nothing but the best. We measure our success many different ways, but I'm very keen on whether we are attracting new customers, are they then reordering, and is revenue increasing. I'm very thankful for our growth and pleasantly surprised how many new customers/first time buyers are discovering our brand. These new customers are returning and continue to choose our products which shows we're doing something right. Q: You've also launched parallel brands like Pedro Fiasco and the vegan Barbiere di Famiglia, based on the VR2 base. How have these lines performed, and in what ways have they helped broaden your presence in the market? A: Pedro Fiasco has now merged into A&E for simplicity. Our Shaving Creams have done very well. People are amazed how well our tallow base shave creams perform at this price point. The Barbiere di Famiglia line has done well. We have recently started offering the creams in aluminum tubes. Our 4th offering in a tube will be Nirvana and you'll get your nose on it at the event on June 7th. We will also release two new VR2 for the Barbiere di Famiglia line which are Trastevere and The Spanish Steps. Eventually all shaving Creams will be made in these aluminum tubes. I believe this will further expand our appeal for hobbyists as well as the non-hobbyist market. Q: With the launch of shaving creams, it looks like you're making a push toward the mainstream shaving market. What has the response been like so far? Have any mass-market retailers expressed interest? A: We will never be mainstream, as mainstream is boring and we're far from a boring brand. We're a traditional company with a very untraditional approach. I think the fact we're so different than other brands is why we're attracting so many new customers. It also helps to have a good product. The response has been fabulous! Have any mass-market retailers expressed interest?  We have no interest in a mass market offerings. You will not see our brand at a Target or some other large retailer. First, we are still a small family business and scaling up would be a challenge. We have the capacity to make 1,000 soaps per day because the equipment I have invested in. That doesn't mean we are making that many or have the staff to do it. Having the capacity and able to do it are two different stories 😆. I honestly would have no interest in making mass market crappy products. I like where we are and prefer to offer the best damn products in the industry at a reasonable price. The rest will take care of itself. Q: With Thalia’s help, you’ve begun moving into unisex fragrances—and possibly even a future line for women. What challenges come with extending the brand beyond men’s grooming? How do you plan to connect with this new audience? A: Thank you for mentioning Thalia. I'm so proud of her. She has a brilliant business sense, she's incredibly intelligent, thoughtful and artistic. Most of our fragrances are unisex. I mean, what's feminine & masculine anyway. Hell, I love a beautiful rose fragrance. Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle is magnificent and considered a woman's fragrance, yet a large percentage of men wear it. I'm one of them, it's gorgeous! Birthday Suit which has received a great deal of interest within the fragrance community is a composition created by Thalia. We're shipping these all over the world. It's crazy, in a good way. Thalia did an amazing job with this and to be honest it leans slightly masculine although it's a unisex fragrance. Many women are buying this as well, which to your question has further expanded our customer base. The fact that woman are buying our products now proves that our strategy to focus on skincare & fragrances for 2025/26 is the right strategy for our brand and our growth. Q: It’s clear from recent interviews that your collaboration with Thalia is deepening. How is she influencing the A&E brand and its product direction? Has she started her perfumery studies in New York yet? A: Ariana & Evans is a family business. My wife Evelyn is an unsung hero. She likes to keep a low profile, but the company doesn't exist without her. I just wanted to mention her because she really prefers to be in the background, but is every bit as important as Thalia and myself. Thalia has really become such an integral part of the business. She is initiating processes which will help streamline operations, as well as took over designing our labels, graphics and the web site. She also recently negotiated and arranged fantastic terms with a new partner to improve our labels. She has truly made her mark in a short period of time. I rely on her at this point for all aspects of the business. Most every decision I make is discussed with her. In most cases if she says no, then it's no! lol. She's the new sheriff in town and I couldn't be more proud and in awe at what she has accomplished in such a short period of time. I don't believe it's a coincidence that the spike in growth coincides with her working full time here. The world is her oyster. As far as her influencing the brands direction. This has been quite significant. Because of her, our goal is to be good stewards of the environment and be 95% plastic free (or more). Our goal was to achieve this by year end, but the tariffs and uncertainty of supply chains may have slowed this down a bit. We will be an ECO-Friendly brand. She is very involved in scent creation and nothing gets released at this point without her approval. I trust her nose that much. As far as the Pratt Institute, we had to put that on hold. We have been so busy and the cost was incredibly high. We just finished paying for her college (we never took a loan) and realized we needed a financial break. She will go because perfuming has become a passion and the success of Birthday Suit & Pistachio Silk have really stoked those flames for her passion of perfuming. Q: A&E seems to be gaining strong traction in Europe. To what do you attribute that growing popularity, and how might it shape your plans for international growth? A: We are doing quite well, but we can do better. Our growth is not limited to the EU. We are doing very well in India, China and throughout the Asian Pacific. I actually think there's tremendous opportunity throughout the world and in North America in particular. We just took our training wheels off and are ready to go full speed ahead.  We attribute our growth to having good partners and offering exceptional products. At the end of the day, the only thing that matters is the value you bring to the market. The European market is very important, so is the US (our largest market), China (fastest growing market) and beyond. Q: Your collaboration with Daniele Maullu has resonated with many. What’s next for that creative partnership? A: Daniele is a partner and a close friend. We recently released Latte e Menta and will make these available as soon as possible to retailers. Legacy, which was our first release for this line has done better than we anticipated. In fact, I had no idea how well received this would be but had no expectations on the success we have seen. There's really no limit, but we won't go crazy with a new release every month. I envision 4 scents in total with supporting products such as matching fragrances, brushes (we recently collaborated with Trotter Hand Crafts) and perhaps body soaps, beard oil, shampoos etc. Q: The community was relieved to hear that the recent fire above your facility didn’t cause serious damage. You also mentioned that A&E is on the verge of outgrowing its current space. Are there plans for expansion or relocation in the near future? A: We will stay put for now and see how things unfold with supply chain issues & tariffs. I don't know if people realize how much impact this can have for a business like ours. Ideally, I would like to own our building, so we'll see what the future holds. Q: Your showroom events have become one of the premier wet shaving meetups on the East Coast. How have they evolved over time? Any plans to expand or take them on the road? A: I just had a conversation about doing something outside the US. Literally just yesterday. I won't say where yet 😊. I think this is our 4th event in Ansonia and this will be our largest. I invited 2 artisan friends to join me at our showroom to sell their products as well. We'll have Doug Layne of Adopted Acres Soap Co and Joe Dean of Subtle Art Soap Co and they'll have tables setup as well. They are great guys and I'm thrilled they'll be here.  Several years ago, I rented a yacht in NYC which went around Manhattan down to the Statue of Liberty. It was a magical day with well over 100 attendees. I'll probably look into doing this again next summer God willing. Q: Like many in the community, your journey into wet shaving began almost by accident. What do you think it is about wet shaving that draws people in so deeply? A: I think it depends on the person. Some go into wet shaving to save money 😆, others for tradition or to get away from plastics. Others want something which will give them a better shave without harsh chemicals. Once they're here, what keeps them here is the camaraderie, friendships, the feeling of belonging and that their not the only one obsessed with smelling soaps lol. None of our outside friends understand, but WE do.  Some of my closest friends I've met through this wonderful hobby. Heck, I've gone from posting SOTD pictures to making a living doing what I love. What a great hobby and blessing this has turned out to be. Q: In a recent interview, you said what you love most is the act of creation. What is it about creating that fuels you? How does it make you feel? A: You have to understand, I never did anything like this before. I never knew I had this in me. I'm going to be 62 in a couple weeks and at an advanced age, this business unlocked a creative side I never knew existed. The best way to answer this is to tell you what I did after work today. When everyone left, Thalia and I were working together, she was making more Birthday Suit and I had an idea for a new fragrance. We are together creating. She added more of the whiskey Lactone and asked me to smell it. I had just added some Ambrox DL to what I was working on and we're sharing our glass jars back and forth and cheering each other on and she's suggesting more French Lavender (Grosso) for mine and we're just both in our own zone working and creating together. Words can't describe what a special moment this was for me. I love creating, challenging myself to be the best I can be and I see Thalia has this same passion. It's wonderful. Q: Looking ahead, where do you see Ariana & Evans in 10 years? What might the company and its product offerings look like a decade from now? A: I doubt I'll be here, but I believe A&E will be. I see the brand leaning more towards fragrances & skincare than it is at the moment. Fragrances have become a very big part of our business and I see this increasing significantly now and in the future. I also see our skincare line growing. I believe we will settle-in and in 10 years our shaving soaps will be highly regarded, but we won't be a part of the artisan base races any longer. Our brand will be more premium, luxury packaging, eco-friendly and respected as such (I hope). As the dust clears and sun sets on my career, I have much to be proud of. I went from being an obsessed hobbyist deep in the rabbit hole to making my own soaps in the kitchen. We then moved to an addition a year later I built on my house for more space and we quickly outgrew that and moved to a factory space 8 months after building the addition. Now our facility runs the length of a city block in Ansonia. We're still a small family business with a lot of hopes & dreams. I think in 10 years we will continue to lead, create & thrive. Peter & Thalia

Shaving gained popularity in Egypt around 3,000 BCE with the introduction of copper razors. Ancient papyrus scrolls describe soothing mixtures of rendered fat, beeswax, alabaster powder, myrrh, and frankincense applied to freshly shaven skin to cool and protect it. In the 2nd century CE the Greek physician Galen of Pergamon created an emulsion of olive oil, rose water, and beeswax that produced a cooling sensation as it dried. This formulation became known as “cold cream,” a name that persists to this day. With industrialization came the refinement of petroleum, and by 1870, Vaseline had emerged as an all-purpose salve used to soothe and protect the skin. The modern aftershave balm appeared in 1980, when Nivea of Germany introduced its balm with Panthenol (Provitamin B5), an ingredient that attracts moisture, promotes healing, and calms inflammation. Today, a new wave of artisan grooming brands offers a wide range of uniquely formulated products tailored to modern skincare needs. To understand how shave balms work, it’s important to first understand the skin—and how shaving can damage it. The outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum , is made up of flattened, dead skin cells called corneocytes . These cells have lost their nuclei and are packed with keratin , a tough structural protein. They are embedded in a lipid mortar —a fatty substance that binds the corneocytes together and forms a watertight seal. This structure is designed to retain moisture, keeping the skin soft, hydrated, and flexible. The Stratum Corneum is the Outer Layer of Skin The lipid mortar is composed of three key elements: 1.      Ceramides – Long, sheet-like molecules that form the structural foundation of the barrier. 2.      Sterols (such as cholesterol and phytosterols) – These act like hinges, fitting between the ceramides to maintain flexibility and prevent cracking when the skin moves—like when you smile or shave. 3.      Free Fatty Acids  (including linoleic, stearic, and oleic acids) – These fill in micro-gaps within the structure and anchor it to the corneocyte wall, reinforcing the barrier’s integrity. As the razor blade moves across the skin, it can strip away the top layer of the stratum corneum . Even if not completely removed, the barrier can still be compromised through micro-cuts, nicks, abrasions, and tears. When this protective layer is damaged, moisture escapes  through a process known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL) —where water evaporates through the skin, leading to tightness, irritation, and redness. TEWL is the primary culprit behind post-shave discomfort and damage, which underscores the fact that a balm’s role should go beyond soothing—it should repair . Yet many balms focus solely on relieving symptoms rather than addressing the root cause: a weakened skin barrier. A Damaged Stratum Corneum Loses Water Balms typically rely on three categories of ingredients to provide relief: emollients , humectants , and occlusives . ·         Emollients —such as jojoba oil, shea butter, and kokum butter—are fats and oils that temporarily  fill in cracks in the skin barrier and soften the skin. ·         Humectants —like glycerin and aloe vera—draw moisture into the skin from the environment and deeper layers. ·         Occlusives —including squalane and other plant oils—form a light, protective seal that helps lock in hydration. Together, these ingredients soothe and moisturize  the skin upon application. However, few balms go further to actively repair  the skin barrier. There are two primary approaches to repairing the lipid barrier. The first is to directly supply its core components : ceramides, sterols, and free fatty acids. The second is to use precursors or supportive agents  that the skin can convert into these components or that stimulate their production. Certain grains, such as oat, bran, and wheat , are rich in phytoceramides , which help the skin rebuild its own ceramides. Linoleic acid , a key free fatty acid in the skin barrier, can be derived from oils like grapeseed, safflower, sunflower , and argan . Sterols , meanwhile, are abundant in natural butters such as shea and cocoa . Additional ingredients that support barrier repair include panthenol (Provitamin B5) , which promotes lipid synthesis and strengthens the barrier, and niacinamide (Vitamin B3) , which boosts natural ceramide production. Here is a breakdown of ingredients found in 4 of the top artisan balms and Nivea: All of these balms provide relief from razor burn, at least temporarily. However, only Barrister & Mann  includes a direct source of ceramides— oat kernel protein —which can be used in active barrier repair. This makes it the most well-balanced and complete  option among the group. In contrast, while Nivea  includes panthenol , it lacks key components for barrier repair, such as plant sterols  found in shea or kokum butter, and essential fatty acids  like linoleic acid, which are present in oils such as grapeseed, radish seed , and safflower . While some aftershaves contain beneficial ingredients that both soothe and help repair the skin, the presence of alcohol can undermine these effects. Alcohol is a potent solvent  that dissolves the skin’s natural lipids and dehydrates the stratum corneum , worsening transepidermal water loss (TEWL) . As a result, even if a soap or splash includes moisturizing and reparative ingredients, their benefits may be diminished. For this reason, it’s recommended that any alcohol-based splash be followed by a balm  to help replenish lost moisture and restore the skin barrier. Below are links to some of the products mentioned: Barrister & Mann Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements Nivea

It’s easy to forget that going down the rabbit hole is, at its heart, a journey of discovery. It means stepping beyond the known into the unknown, trading the familiar for the strange. But it’s the wonder — the fantastical, the utterly delightful — that draws us in. We become transfixed. And we stay. We’ve arrived in….Wonderland. Few artisans do more to enrich the world of wet shaving than Douglas Smythe and his partner Fran of Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements. Their soaps, splashes, razors, and brushes are praised for their innovation and performance — but they’re adored for their storytelling, artistry, and offbeat sense of adventure. Douglas and Fran don’t just create products — they build worlds. I had the chance to catch up with Douglas and explore his ingenious world of wit, wonder, and creativity. Here’s what I discovered… Q: A pith helmet, an ancient map, a subterranean cavern, a jungle, an alien planet...is there a real connection between wet shaving and the spirit of exploration or is this just part of the fun? A:  Maybe not literal jungles or pith helmets (though I do own one and did create my first product in a rain forest), but yes, there’s absolutely a connection. Shaving used to be this mindless routine. Wet shaving turns it into something you actually  experience . It's a small, daily reset. A way to re-engage with yourself. So whether it's a journey into your own reflection or a deep dive into bay rum for example, there's something quietly adventurous about it. Plus, who doesn’t like the idea of starting the day with a feeling of epic adventure? Q: You've credited Richard Sharpe Shaver as a major influence on the Agharta Saga and other PAA stories and lore. Shaver’s life was marked by both creativity and significant mental health struggles, including institutionalization. What, in your view, makes for a compelling story? Is there a line between fantasy and madness or are the best ideas born in that gray area? A: The best stories come from people who see the world a little differently; sometimes beautifully, sometimes uncomfortably so. Shaver was one of those people. What he lacked in traditional stability and ability, he more than made up for in raw imagination. That line between madness and creativity? I think it’s blurry on purpose. Some ideas need to come from that strange middle ground, because that’s where the stuff lives that we don’t have names for yet. Q: In video interviews from 2019 and 2020, you and Fran described working around the clock; eating, sleeping, and breathing wet shaving. Is that still the case today, or has your work-life rhythm changed over time? A:  We’re still passionate, but we’ve definitely upgraded the sleep part. In the early days, it was full-on caffeine-fueled chaos. It took us ten years before we took our first vacation, seriously. Now, we’ve found a rhythm. We still live and breathe it, but we also come up for air. There’s balance now. Huxley (our 120 lb Malamute and part-time life coach/buddha) makes sure we take daily walks. Fran and I also make time for hikes, weird bookstores, and actual weekends (kinda). For the last 4 years I have made it a point to take a little over a month to solo backpack across Spain. This summer I will do Spain & Portugal. This is my yearly recalibration, my therapy, my pilgrimage. lol Q: Back then, you also expressed optimism that wet shaving would continue to grow. Has the industry evolved in the way you anticipated, or have there been surprises along the way? A:  It’s grown, and in a lot of ways, it’s exceeded expectations. It’s become this global, passionate subculture that I would like to believe we had a small part in creating! There’ve been some surprises too, sooooo many new artisans, new hardware, and a few odd trends, but overall, the heart of it is still the same. That’s encouraging. Q: You’ve spoken about launching PAA in 2012-13, when only a handful of artisans were in the space. By 2019, the landscape was much more crowded. Fast forward to 2025, what’s your take on the current state of competition? How has it shaped PAA’s strategy and identity? A: [ We began in 2012, not 2012-2013...don't take that away from us! lol, it's even in our logo; "est. 2012". ] There’s definitely more noise now, but that’s not a bad thing. It keeps everyone on their toes. For us, it means staying true to what makes PAA…well,  PAA . Storytelling, innovations, thinking outside the CUBE, er...box and not taking ourselves too seriously, but taking our formulas  very  seriously. We have never chased trends. We make what excites us and what we’d actually want to use.  Q: You’ve said that you and Fran first met in college, then reconnected before forming PAA. What’s the secret behind your successful partnership, both personally and professionally? A:  We listen. We laugh. We respect the hell out of each other’s instincts. I bring the absurd ideas, and Fran brings the filter and vice versa depending on the day. We’re both curious, creative, and committed to making something great together.  Q: CK-6 is widely considered one of the best-performing bases in wet shaving. What’s the secret behind it? How did you arrive at the final formula, and what makes it stand apart? A:  Obsession and butter. Lots of butters. I basically went down the rabbit hole of what makes a soap  feel  good, not just slick, but nourishing. CK-6 uses exotic butters most people and artisans had never heard of at the time; Bacuri, Murumuru, Cupuaçu, to name a few. It’s luxurious but functional. We wanted a base that would put an end to that trite forum argument that tallow soap is somehow superior to all.  And I believe we succeeded.  Q: You release a remarkable number of scents every year. Is your creative process more experimental, throwing spaghetti at the wall, or do you follow a specific design philosophy or perfumery style? A:  It’s all that, somewhere between jazz, storytelling and engineering. I’ll get hit with an idea, sometimes it’s a memory, sometimes a weird dream, something I read, sometimes a discontinued fragrance I want to revive, etc and then I build around that. So yes, it’s experimental, but there’s also structure. I’m a believer in classic perfumery, but I’m not afraid to go off-script if it means making something memorable.  Q: Despite having one of the deepest fragrance catalogs in the industry, many of your bestsellers: Atomic Age Bay Rum, Scentless, Doppelganger Grey, CAD, Clubguy lean toward the familiar or classic. How does that influence how you plan new scent releases? And why do you think Future Fiction has resonated so strongly as a breakout hit? A:  [Scentless? lol...I'm not sure I would lump that in with "Best Seller Frags".] Our classics stick because they’re reliable. They’re like comfort food, but with a better skin feel. That said, we always aim to sneak in something new.  Future Fiction  worked because it’s both nostalgic and completely unexpected. It smells like something out of a dream you don’t quite remember but know you want to revisit. People crave the familiar, but they remember the stuff that surprises them also.  Q: The Big Shave S’West was a cornerstone event for the community before the pandemic. Why didn’t it return afterward and is there hope for a revival? A:  COVID changed a lot of plans for us and everyone else. And to be honest, once we paused, we realized just how much time, energy and money those events took. We invested a lot in organizing that last one and lost it all. It was going to be the best one yet too. In short, calling that off broke my heart. Sooooo, I am taking a break. But that doesn’t mean it’s off the table forever. If we do bring it back, it’ll be with fresh energy, new ideas, and probably even more folding tables. I think the Big Shave definitely inspired a lot of the new shave gatherings you see; live demos, an on scene barber doing shaves, multi day events, panels, day trips, free admission, etc...these trends all began with the Big Shave Events! We took the idea of a traditional shave meet up and mixed in some comicon elements! Q: What do you personally love most about the wet shaving community? A:  The  Shave Cadets . No question. The shared passion, the humor, the generosity, it’s a unique group of folks. It’s one of the few places online where strangers will argue intensely about whether to bloom or not bloom and then send each other free samples. In most of the groups it’s "SHnerdy", passionate, and surprisingly kind. I love being a part of that.  Q: If you could send one message to every wet shaver in the world right now, what would it be? A:  Stop overanalyzing. Blade gap debates? They're the flat earth theory of wet shaving; loud, circular, and ultimately pointless. Just shave with the damn razor. Did it feel good?  Did it work?  That’s your answer. You can get a stellar shave from a $300 stainless beast or a $5 flea market relic. Price isn’t a guarantee, performance is personal. Same goes for soaps and blades, what works like magic in one setup might flop in another. So experiment. Screw the hive mind. Find what actually works  for you . And don’t forget: a great shave, like a strong coffee, won’t solve all your problems, but it’s a hell of a good start. Shave On & Stay Groovy! Doug & Fran Explore Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Shannon Constantine Logan is the founder and owner of Elysian Soap Shops, a luxury men's grooming brand, based in Brodheadsville, Pennsylvania. We were lucky enough to catch up with her. Here she is... I heard in an interview you did about 3 years ago with Pasquale Zamboi, The Italian Shaver, that when you first contemplated starting a business you wanted to do something with your hands. You mentioned that you considered a few different possibilities including crochet and wine, but ultimately settled on soap. Have you always been a craftsy person and enjoyed making things with your hands? What were some of the first crafts you tried growing up? I have always been a hands on person and I love learning new crafts. These days, when I’m not making soap, I channel my creativity through painting, photography, crochet, and cooking.  Once you settled on soap, how did you learn about the soap making process? Did you start with melt and pour soaps? How is your soap made today? What process do you use? And where is it actually made? I started making soap during the lockdowns, so I had plenty of time to research before I actually started experimenting. I did a deep dive on the soapmaking message boards, took lots of notes, and watched a ton of YouTube videos. I started with cold process bar soap with goats milk and gave them to friends and family to try. I was making soap in the spare bedroom of my apartment and curing the bars in my closet. I remember I burned a hole in the hardwood floor with the lye one day, and decided it was time to buy a tarp to put under my soap making table. (My landlord was a good sport about it, thankfully.) Today, I have a five gallon oil tank that I use to make the soap. I moved out of the spare bedroom and into a 1,200 sq foot basement. The floor is concrete, so I can spill things to my hearts content.  I also saw in an interview that you did with Tobin Fetters that you started out in Health & Beauty products retail while in college working for brands like L’Occitane and Acqua di Parma. How did that experience help shape your vision for your brand and your products today? Working in the beauty industry definitely impacted my vision for my business. I like to think that Elysian has some of the qualities of both those brands woven into it. L’Occitane used to have the Cade line of shaving products for men, so, way before I ever started making shaving soap, I was already selling it!  Acqua di Parma is really a case study in making products that stand the test of time. It’s something I definitely aspire to. I see SOTD posts with those iconic Parma yellow tubs all the time. I’m tickled that my brand is rubbing shoulders with such an esteemed fragrance house.  The Elysian brand has an air of erudition about it given the mythological references and ancient historical figures. When and where did you learn about the things which you draw inspiration from? Out of curiosity, what was your major in college? I majored in Journalism, but I guess I’ve always had a thing for literature, mythology etc. Whether intentionally or not, your brand today seems to have a focus on men's grooming. As a woman who is not a wet shaver, what kind of research do you do when designing your soaps and fragrances for men? How do you know what men want, both in terms of shave experience, and the fragrances they like to wear? I start out by testing all my products on myself. You’d be surprised, but a soap that performs well under duress—in a hot, waterlogged shower environment—is also a soap that will perform well in a more controlled setting, at the sink, for a man. We are not so different after all. ;)  I think I have a good nose for what smells good on men, but I also work with a male perfumery partner. He helps my formulas stay on the masculine side of unisex.  As a perfumer, what do you think are the hallmarks of a well-designed fragrance? In my opinion, a well-designed fragrance isn’t over reliant on super ambers or whatever aroma molecule is trending at the moment. It shouldn’t smell “dated” after a few years. A normal person is only able to pick out 2 or 3 notes from a perfume, so you have to make those count in terms of quality, novelty, harmony etc. The hallmark of a really great fragrance, for me, is one that I can remember with great clarity even years later.  I've heard you say that when designing a soap it's all about getting the fats right, stearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, tallow, etc. You also say on your website that protection, glide, and post-shave feel are crucial to a successful soap. What are the ingredients other than the fats that you think are most important, and how do you find the right balance? Glycerin for slickness, Clay for silkiness and glide, and xanthan gum for thickness. As for proportions, you just have to keep testing until you get the ratios where you want them.   Your brand has some of the most elegant and beautiful artwork in wet shaving. What's your concept behind the designs? Do you make them yourself or work with an outside designer? Thank you. I work with a professional artist/graphic designer. She’s been with me since the first tin of soap. Your first soap was a bar soap, Lemon Poppy. And I recall you telling Pasquale Zamboi that shave soaps was something you almost fell into, and that originally you didn't know anything about the wet shaving world. What have been the biggest challenges growing your shave soap line, what is the most important thing you have learned about shave soap along the way, and what is the one thing that surprised you the most? The biggest challenge is getting rid of some of the less popular lines to make room for the new ones. I have way too many SKUs.  I was surprised by the fact that male beauty brands get cult followings just like other beauty brands. The enthusiasm still sort of surprises me.  Most people who aren't Wet Shavers have a hard time understanding what is special and unique about the Wet Shaving community. How would you describe the Wet Shaving community, and your experience with it, to an outsider who knows nothing about it? I like to call the online wet shaving community the Mannerbund of the metaverse. It’s like a big friendly club of gentlemen who take pride in their appearance, like to banter, and enjoy simple self care rituals. A wholesome hobby, if I’ve ever seen one—and so welcoming!  What's next for Elysian Soaps? We are working on retail partnerships and overseas distribution. We will also be releasing a new soap base and aftershave formula later this year with some unique ingredients. And of course, lots of new fragrances are in the works!  Shannon Constantine Logan

Shave Dad It was 7:30 PM on a Thursday night. I was home, catching up on some Netflix, when my phone rang. Actually, it wasn’t my phone—it was Facebook Messenger. And the call was from none other than the original Shave Dad himself, Mr. Jerry Plesi. If you're a wet shaving enthusiast, chances are you’ve heard of Jerry. He’s the founder and moderator of one of the most active and beloved shaving groups on Facebook: Shave Dad . While there are countless wet shaving groups online, Shave Dad has earned a global reputation for its loyal, passionate, and welcoming community. For those who don’t know him, Jerry is a retired police officer from Brooklyn—a tough guy with a heart of gold. He’s serious, straight-talking, and deeply committed to fostering a space that feels more like a family than just a forum. “Hey! Why did you change the label on Devil’s Den on Instagram?” Jerry asked as soon as I picked up. Was I in trouble? “Oh, hi Jerry. Actually… that wasn’t me. It was ChatGPT. I thought it’d be cool to change the background and when I ran it through the tool, it tweaked the label a bit,” I stammered. “Oh, ok. Now that I know, that’s no problem. It’s kinda cool! Leave it.” That brief exchange captures a lot about Jerry’s approach—not just to the Shave Dad group, but to life. His philosophy is simple: everyone is welcome, as long as their heart is in the right place and their intentions are good. No drama. No politics. If you break the rules, you’re out. Otherwise, enjoy yourself and contribute in good faith. Jerry isn’t new to wet shaving. He started in the 1970s with a Gillette Slim and a Red Tip passed down from his father. For most of his life, shaving was just something you did—not a hobby. Then one day, like so many of us, he stumbled across a few shave videos on YouTube… and down the rabbit hole he went. But here’s where Jerry stands apart. As he watched reviewers showcase their free soaps, splashes, and razors, he didn’t think, “How do I get those?”  Instead, he thought, “They should be giving back to the community—not just taking from it.” That was the spark that ignited Shave Dad . Jerry’s vision was simple: create a platform that connects artisans and wet shavers, make it open to everyone, and ensure the community receives something in return. Thus, the giveaway was born. His rule? Any artisan is welcome to promote their products on Shave Dad— as long as they contribute an item for a giveaway first . A win-win. Artisans gain exposure, and shavers get a chance to try new gear for free. It was never about Jerry. It was always about the community. During our conversation, Jerry shared his concerns about the risks of the rabbit hole. He’s seen friends go overboard—spending too much money, neglecting family, losing balance. He reminded me that everything, even soap ( wink wink ), has a shelf life. “Don’t overdo it,” he warned. “Enjoy it—but remember what matters most.” For Jerry, that’s family—he speaks proudly of his two grown children. It’s health—he hits the gym daily at 66. And it’s peace of mind—which is why he’s so committed to keeping Shave Dad free of politics and negativity. As we wrapped up, we both agreed that what makes wet shaving special is the spirit of being a gentleman. Jerry may always be a Brooklyn cop at heart, but he’s also the very definition of a modern gentleman: generous, grounded, and fiercely dedicated to those around him. The big daddy with a big heart. Jerry Plesi

When it comes to skin care, moisturization is foundational. It preserves the elasticity of the skin, supports enzymatic repair, maintains smoothness, reduces inflammation, and in sum, slows visible aging. In Japan they call it Wakagaeri no Izumi . In Greece, Kanathos . In China , the Jade Pool . Ponce de Léon called it the Fountain of Youth . Ponce de Léon's Treasure is Water Shave soaps and splashes are all about scent and performance. While scent can be assessed by smell, performance is more difficult to measure. Performance has two sides, function and feel. What does it do? How does it make you feel? And it’s different for shave soaps and splashes. But one goal they share is moisturization, an important benefit and key component of the vaunted post-shave feel. Over decades of dermatological development beginning in the 1940s, three classes of moisturizing ingredients have been identified and combined into what’s become known as The Moisturization Triangle: Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives. Three Keys to Moisturization Humectants attract water and bind it, emollients fill micro-gaps in the skin and soften it, and occlusives form a seal and lock it in. The result is hydration. The core constituents of any soap are fat and lie, usually tallow, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, and potassium hydroxide. Aftershaves are primarily built around alcohol, water, and astringents, usually Witch Hazel. Upon inspection, the remaining ingredients are usually members of the Moisturization Triangle, many of which are natural, some of which are synthesized. Here are the most common and the effect they have on the skin: Table 1: Common Shave Soap & Splash Additives When looking at the ingredient list of a shave soap, by identifying the elements of the Moisturization Triangle the degree of moisturization can be assessed. Below are some examples of well known soaps with the ingredients broken down by moisturization elements. Glycerin, which is a natural by-product of saponification, is the most common humectant, butters and oils are the most common emollients, and lanolin is the most common occlusive. Only a select few soaps, in this example Stirling, Gentleman’s Nod, and Mike’s Natural Soaps, employ all three. Table 2: Popular Shave Soaps - Moisturization Triangle Aftershaves are limited in which ingredients can be used because they are liquid. Glycerin, a natural liquid, is the most common humectant, while emollients lean towards oils and synthetic ingredients, and occlusives tend to use Dimethicone. In the examples below, only Gentleman’s Nod and Castle Forbes include all three. Table 3: Popular Aftershaves - Moisturization Triangle The most cited and highly prized quality of the post-shave feel is to be “well-moisturized”. When considering an aftershave or shave soap one way to predict the post-shave outcome is to inspect the ingredients and look for elements of the Moisturization Triangle. As listed at the bottom of Table 1, other ingredients can also provide benefits and enhance the post-shave feel such as Fuller’s Earth, Kaolin Clay, Tussah Silk, and of course, the king of astringents, Witch Hazel. Not only is Witch Hazel a toner, but it has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-microbial properties, a topic worthy of its own in-depth discussion to follow.

Jen Slagle is the owner of Mama Bear Soaps in Felch on the beautiful upper peninsula of Michigan. She is 47, and runs a farm with her husband of 27 years, Jason, who together have 3 children, Cody 25, Justin 22, and Lauren 18. Jen is a self-starter who throws herself into her work and when not running Mama Bear Soaps works on her farm which is home to poultry, cows, a donkey named Jackson, 2 dogs, 3 cats and has a variety of produce and plants. She apprenticed under the first Mama Bear, Susan Clark, then took over the business in 2019, where she continues Sue's work while making her own mark. Jen is a true country soul, and in her free time loves camping, boating, gardening, and taking nature rides. Her soaps are full of love, and so is her story. Here it is.... I read in a post on Badger & Blade that before joining Mama Bear Soaps you were a teacher looking for a new career. What attracted you to the world of soaps and fragrances? You also said you met Sue Clark at a craft show. Had you started making soaps on your own before you met her?  I spent 17 years as an elementary teacher, primarily teaching 3rd grade. While I truly loved my work, over time it began to feel mentally constricting. Around the same period, I experienced a series of personal losses — my mother, my young stepfather, and soon after, my brother. Those events made me reflect deeply on how short life can be and inspired me to think about how I truly wanted to spend the rest of my life. At the time, I was in charge of organizing the holiday craft fair at my school, which is how I met Sue Clark — the original "Mama Bear." Sue, who had become deaf later in life due to an accident, loved communicating through Facebook. After the craft fair, she reached out to thank me for helping her, and we began exchanging messages. She shared with me that she was looking to retire and was hoping to find someone to take over her soap business. To be honest, I didn’t even know shave soap existed before meeting Sue, and I had never made soap before! Another fun fact — I’ve always been someone who prefers unscented products, which quickly became a running joke between us. After a lot of thought, I decided to take the leap and begin the transition into owning Mama Bear Soaps. My husband and I already had a farm and sold at farmers markets, so adding soaps made sense — especially during seasons when produce was limited. I apprenticed with Sue for five months, learning the craft of soap-making and the day-to-day operations of the business. Thanks to that time together, the transition was smooth, and many customers didn’t even realize the business had changed hands. We shared a lot of laughs during those months, navigating the communication gaps and all the little challenges that came with them. Mama Bear Soaps was founded in 2008, and I officially took over in 2019. It has always been — and continues to be — a small, one-person, handmade business! Felch Michigan seems like a beautiful, but remote place. Are you originally from Felch? What's life like in the Felch area? Felch is located in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and it’s truly a beautiful place. My only complaint is that the winters are a little too long and the summers feel far too short! Outdoor activities are a big part of life here, and the community is very laid-back — everyone knows everyone. I’m originally from Ohio, but I moved to Felch when I was 20 after getting married, as my husband’s family lived up here. On your website you sell some products from your farm. How do you split your time between the farm and Mama Bear Soaps? Slagle’s Family Farm is a first-generation farm that my husband and I started in 2008. We began as a small operation, attending local farmers markets to earn a little extra income for our young family of three children (who are now 25, 22, and 18!). Over the years, we have grown into a well-established farm with a wide range of offerings. In the spring, we operate a greenhouse featuring over 150 different plants, all started from seed right here on the farm. We also grow a variety of produce, raise animals, create homemade food items in our commercial kitchen, offer a Pick-Your-Own Pumpkin Patch in the fall, handcraft wooden items, and maintain a storefront for customers to shop locally. Mama Bear Soaps is not large enough to stand alone as a full-time business, but it has been a wonderful addition to what we offer at Slagle’s Family Farm. Did Sue teach you her soap and fragrance making techniques? What process do you use to make soap? Is it melt and pour? Hot or cold process? Do you make your base for the soap and fragrances? Have you made changes to the process since taking over? Sue taught me everything I needed to know to take over the soap business. As I mentioned earlier, I had never made soap before stepping into this role. Mama Bear Soaps uses the melt-and-pour method, which Sue always believed created a more consistent and reliable product. I’ve kept all of her original offerings and recipes, as they are what longtime customers have come to love and expect. In addition, I’ve expanded the product line by adding hand soap, goat’s milk soap, shave oil, and some of our farm products to the website — while still staying true to the quality and spirit of Mama Bear Soaps. Your soaps are unique from most other artisans in that they seem to have a higher glycerin content. What are the benefits of having 20% glycerin in a shave soap? What’s your philosophy on what makes a good shave soap? A good shave soap should lather up easy, feel slick, and leave your skin better than it found it. I make glycerin shave soap, and it’s all about that rich, effortless lather — no wrestling with it. Just a little water, a few swirls, and you're good to go. It’s slick enough that your razor glides like it knows where it’s headed. Plus, glycerin naturally pulls moisture into your skin, so you’re left feeling hydrated, not dried out. Scent’s a big part of shave soap too — or sometimes, no scent at all. Everyone’s got their own taste when it comes to fragrance, and honestly, my unscented soap is one of my best sellers. I put a lot of work into keeping it truly unscented, which isn’t easy when you’re surrounded by a hundred different scents. End of the day, good shave soap should make your shave smoother, easier, and just a better experience overall. What have been some of the challenges you’ve experienced since taking over the business from Sue? What changes have you made to the business and the product line? I’d say the biggest challenge has been dealing with the changes fragrance companies make, especially with cologne scents. New government safety regulations keep coming out, and that forces changes to the formulas. So even if a scent’s been the same for years, people can definitely notice when it shifts. Honestly, I was lucky — Sue was an incredible teacher. When I bought the business, I took over everything: her email, website, Amazon page — the whole thing — so the transition stayed smooth. Many people never even knew the business changed hands. Even after the sale, Sue stayed in touch and was always there to answer any questions I had. Sadly, she passed away unexpectedly this past fall. It’s tough, because she loved this business and cared so much about her customers. If you knew Sue, you knew how much she loved chatting with everyone online, especially late at night. I’ve kept all of her original products going, but I’ve also added some new ones — like liquid hand soap, goat’s milk soap, shave oil, kids’ soaps, and some farm items too. I’ve expanded the women’s line quite a bit as well. Sue mainly offered floral scents for women, but with more women getting into wet shaving, I felt it was important to offer a wider variety. It’s been a big part of growing the business and honoring what she built. Many of your fragrances are homages to designer fragrances, but many are also original. When you design an original scent, where do you get your inspiration? In your mind, what makes a great fragrance?  To be honest — like I mentioned earlier — I’m mostly an unscented person. I won’t even let my husband wear cologne! I’ve kept all of Sue’s original cologne scents, and most of the new cologne scents I carry now are ones customers specifically asked for. Personally, if it’s not unscented, I lean toward more natural scents and essential oils, so I’ve added a lot more of those options over time. At the end of the day, it’s hard to say what makes a "great" fragrance, because it’s such a personal thing — it’s all about where a scent takes your mind and the memories it stirs up. You have a very unique take on aftershaves. Why have you chosen to make them alcohol free? Also, why do you offer a “summer” and “winter” version? Why have you chosen the specific ingredients that you use, such as Hyaluronic Acid, Biotin, Chamomile Hydrosol, and Pearl Croix? Lastly, why have you chosen to make them “scent” optional? I’m a very small business, usually just a few orders a day, so it’s easy for me to accommodate special requests from customers. All of the ingredients and formulations come straight from Sue — I simply learned them from her. She put a lot of care into creating high-quality products and I continue on the tradition, and they really do work wonderfully. I personally use the aftershave balm as my daily moisturizer — it’s that good! I offer both a summer and a winter version of the balm to suit different skin types and climates. It can get down to -20 degrees here in the winter, and between the cold and the wood heat, I definitely need the extra moisture from the winter formula. But if I lived somewhere hot and humid like Texas, I’m pretty sure I’d be a summer or menthol girl all the way. What are your most popular soaps and fragrances? When it comes to online sales, Aged Spice Shave Soap is by far the most popular — it’s definitely the top seller. Other customer favorites are Unscented, Awakenings, Lemon Ice, Ye Olde Barbershoppe, and Dragon’s Blood. In my storefront, though, it’s a little different. The local favorites tend to be the cherry almond and raspberry cocoa butter soaps — people around here can’t seem to get enough of them. If you had a message to share with all the Wet Shavers out there what would it be? I quickly learned why Sue loved her customers so much — the wetshaving community is such a caring and generous group of people. I look forward to continuing to provide great customer service and fulfilling special order requests. I’m excited for the future as I expand my soap business to meet new demands while maintaining the traditions that brought us here. My goal as a soapmaker is to add a tallow shave soap within the year. Thank you all for your support of Mama Bear Soaps — I truly appreciate each and every one of you!  Jen Mama Bear & Jason Slagle