Pharaoh Balm-ed Before Embalmed: The History & Science of Shave Balms

Shaving gained popularity in Egypt around 3,000 BCE with the introduction of copper razors. Ancient papyrus scrolls describe soothing mixtures of rendered fat, beeswax, alabaster powder, myrrh, and frankincense applied to freshly shaven skin to cool and protect it. In the 2nd century CE the Greek physician Galen of Pergamon created an emulsion of olive oil, rose water, and beeswax that produced a cooling sensation as it dried. This formulation became known as “cold cream,” a name that persists to this day. With industrialization came the refinement of petroleum, and by 1870, Vaseline had emerged as an all-purpose salve used to soothe and protect the skin. The modern aftershave balm appeared in 1980, when Nivea of Germany introduced its balm with Panthenol (Provitamin B5), an ingredient that attracts moisture, promotes healing, and calms inflammation. Today, a new wave of artisan grooming brands offers a wide range of uniquely formulated products tailored to modern skincare needs.

To understand how shave balms work, it’s important to first understand the skin—and how shaving can damage it. The outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum, is made up of flattened, dead skin cells called corneocytes. These cells have lost their nuclei and are packed with keratin, a tough structural protein. They are embedded in a lipid mortar—a fatty substance that binds the corneocytes together and forms a watertight seal. This structure is designed to retain moisture, keeping the skin soft, hydrated, and flexible.

The Stratum Corneum is the Outer Layer of Skin

The lipid mortar is composed of three key elements:

1.      Ceramides – Long, sheet-like molecules that form the structural foundation of the barrier.

2.      Sterols (such as cholesterol and phytosterols) – These act like hinges, fitting between the ceramides to maintain flexibility and prevent cracking when the skin moves—like when you smile or shave.

3.      Free Fatty Acids (including linoleic, stearic, and oleic acids) – These fill in micro-gaps within the structure and anchor it to the corneocyte wall, reinforcing the barrier’s integrity. As the razor blade moves across the skin, it can strip away the top layer of the stratum corneum. Even if not completely removed, the barrier can still be compromised through micro-cuts, nicks, abrasions, and tears. When this protective layer is damaged, moisture escapes through a process known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL)—where water evaporates through the skin, leading to tightness, irritation, and redness. TEWL is the primary culprit behind post-shave discomfort and damage, which underscores the fact that a balm’s role should go beyond soothing—it should repair. Yet many balms focus solely on relieving symptoms rather than addressing the root cause: a weakened skin barrier.

A Damaged Stratum Corneum Loses Water

Balms typically rely on three categories of ingredients to provide relief: emollients, humectants, and occlusives.

·         Emollients—such as jojoba oil, shea butter, and kokum butter—are fats and oils that temporarily fill in cracks in the skin barrier and soften the skin.

·         Humectants—like glycerin and aloe vera—draw moisture into the skin from the environment and deeper layers.

·         Occlusives—including squalane and other plant oils—form a light, protective seal that helps lock in hydration.

Together, these ingredients soothe and moisturize the skin upon application. However, few balms go further to actively repair the skin barrier.

There are two primary approaches to repairing the lipid barrier. The first is to directly supply its core components: ceramides, sterols, and free fatty acids. The second is to use precursors or supportive agents that the skin can convert into these components or that stimulate their production.

Certain grains, such as oat, bran, and wheat, are rich in phytoceramides, which help the skin rebuild its own ceramides. Linoleic acid, a key free fatty acid in the skin barrier, can be derived from oils like grapeseed, safflower, sunflower, and argan. Sterols, meanwhile, are abundant in natural butters such as shea and cocoa.

Additional ingredients that support barrier repair include panthenol (Provitamin B5), which promotes lipid synthesis and strengthens the barrier, and niacinamide (Vitamin B3), which boosts natural ceramide production.

Here is a breakdown of ingredients found in 4 of the top artisan balms and Nivea:

All of these balms provide relief from razor burn, at least temporarily. However, only Barrister & Mann includes a direct source of ceramides—oat kernel protein—which can be used in active barrier repair. This makes it the most well-balanced and complete option among the group. In contrast, while Nivea includes panthenol, it lacks key components for barrier repair, such as plant sterols found in shea or kokum butter, and essential fatty acids like linoleic acid, which are present in oils such as grapeseed, radish seed, and safflower.

While some aftershaves contain beneficial ingredients that both soothe and help repair the skin, the presence of alcohol can undermine these effects. Alcohol is a potent solvent that dissolves the skin’s natural lipids and dehydrates the stratum corneum, worsening transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As a result, even if a soap or splash includes moisturizing and reparative ingredients, their benefits may be diminished. For this reason, it’s recommended that any alcohol-based splash be followed by a balm to help replenish lost moisture and restore the skin barrier.

Below are links to some of the products mentioned: Barrister & Mann

Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Nivea