Razor Rankings

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The Infinity is something of an anomaly. Although it follows the same basic architecture as the classic Hybrid design, its efficiency and overall performance are notably higher than many of the razors that share its underlying DNA.

The defining characteristic of a Hybrid is a clamp width of roughly 12–16mm, measured between the widest points at which the blade is secured. The classic Hybrid architecture uses two raised pillars, or ridges, that extend from the base plate to meet the top cap and clamp the blade. Interestingly, this arrangement first appeared in the UK in 1927 in a design by two little-known British inventors, John Henry Morgan and Alfred Stewart Mumme. The design was later acquired by Wardonia UK, which appears to have licensed it to Merkur, where it ultimately evolved into the legendary Model 34. Much of the subsequent development of this design language took place in Germany. In 2007, Mühle, working with Edwin Jagger, introduced the R89/DE89 with a closely related architecture. Giesen & Forsthoff followed in 2014 with the strikingly similar three-piece Timor, while Design94 introduced its own interpretation in 2021. All share the same basic twin-pillar layout and clamp widths of approximately 12mm.

Despite these similarities, the Design94 behaves very differently from its predecessors. The fundamental weakness of the Hybrid architecture is blade rigidity. Because the blade is clamped roughly midway between its centerline and cutting edge, it is neither supported close to the edge nor bent aggressively enough to generate significant rigidity through torsion. The result is a greater tendency toward flex, or chatter, which can compromise both efficiency and comfort.

The Design94 is not immune to this weakness, but it departs sharply from the others in two important respects: blade gap and blade exposure. Its 1.1mm gap is substantial, a dimension that ordinarily demands at least a degree of caution and technique. Merkur does not publish the gap of the 34C, although it is generally believed to be around 0.70mm, similar to the Timor and Yaqi Orion, while the R89 is estimated at only 0.45mm. The more intriguing difference, however, is exposure. While these other razors are generally neutral to slightly positive, Design94 specifies the Infinity at negative 0.05mm. On paper, that should make it relatively tame. In practice, it is anything but.

The feel and efficiency of the Infinity simply do not correspond to a razor with genuinely negative exposure. ShaveSplash’s contention is that the published figure is technically correct, but somewhat misleading in describing how the razor actually behaves on the face. A close examination of the top cap reveals two raised humps that appear to form a narrow contact ribbon, helping stabilize the head as it moves across the skin.

If a straight line is drawn from the top of one of these humps to the shave guard, the resulting geometric shave plane does indeed place the blade edge slightly behind the line. Measured this way, the Infinity has negative exposure.

After numerous shaves, however, ShaveSplash does not believe this represents the functional shave plane experienced in use. The raised hump appears to depress or redirect the skin slightly lower, bringing it closer to a plane defined by the broader curvature of the top cap and the guard. Relative to this plane, the blade edge sits well forward. In other words, the Infinity may have negative geometric exposure, but its effective exposure appears distinctly positive. ShaveSplash estimates that effective exposure at approximately +0.10 to +0.20mm, placing it in the same general territory as several famously efficient razors, including the Blackland Blackbird, Tatara Nodachi, Wolfman WR1 0.74, and Timeless 0.78.

And therein lies the Infinity’s real strength. Its effective exposure is substantial, and when combined with a 1.1mm blade gap, it produces tremendous cutting power. Efficiency is Medium-High, scoring a 9, with an average result of BBS. The tradeoff is that the Infinity cannot fully escape the limitations of its Hybrid architecture. Blade rigidity remains less than ideal, and Comfort suffers accordingly, scoring a 7. Consistency is solid, with repeatable and predictable results, earning an 8. Ease of Use is more demanding. The combination of a wide gap, high effective exposure, and noticeable blade flex leaves relatively little margin for error, particularly with a very sharp blade. Cuts, nicks, and weepers appeared during several early test shaves, which is why Ease of Use earns a 6. The Infinity is capable of an exceptionally close shave, but extracting that performance requires attention and technique.

Its titanium construction is equally impressive. The machining is precise, the mirror polish is exceptionally lustrous, and at 96g the Infinity manages to feel both nimble and substantial. Mechanically, it is essentially an evolution of Design94’s first titanium model introduced in 2021, which received a Special Mention at the German Design Awards in 2022. The aluminum Aviation94 and steel-headed Life series introduced in 2023 share the same head geometry, including the 1.1mm gap and stated -0.05mm exposure. The Infinity distinguishes itself with a new 92mm handle featuring a distinctive three-sided fluting pattern, along with a matching titanium stand that allows the razor to be displayed upright.

Among Hybrids, the Infinity is a particularly strong performer. Its Composite Score of 30 sits above the class average of 29, and it is one of only two razors in the category to produce an average result of BBS or better. The best-performing Hybrids tend to use trapezoidal head shapes that bend the blade downward more aggressively, creating additional torsion and improving rigidity. Razors such as the Maxwell June, Yates Winning, and class-leading Stando Sarmata benefit from this approach. Among conventional, non-trapezoidal Hybrids, however, the Infinity is the most efficient, while its Composite Score is surpassed only by the Hone Type 15, Rocnel 304, and SV 2.0, all of which place greater emphasis on Comfort and Ease of Use than outright Efficiency. For wet shavers who value exceptional workmanship, unconventional engineering, and a close shave with a healthy bite, the Design94 Infinity belongs on the short list.

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The PILS 104NL is, in a word, elegant. It even looks gentlemanly, with its black acrylic handle making the razor appear as though it were dressed in a tuxedo. Everything about the razor reflects quality and refinement, from its solid 112g weight to its tight tolerances, graceful curves, and restrained blade presentation.

The 104NL is a variant of the iconic 101NE. Mechanically the two razors are identical, with the only difference being the handle. Instead of a solid stainless steel bar, the 104NL uses a smooth black acrylic sleeve over what appears to be a steel core. ShaveSplash chose the 104NL not only because of its distinguished appearance, but also because the acrylic wrapped handle is slightly thicker than the all steel version, which better suits our preference for larger grips. The reduction in weight from 123g to 112g also makes the razor feel a little more nimble, although the balance shifts slightly toward the head.

Like the razor itself, the history of PILS is distinctive and, to some extent, mysterious. The company was founded in Stuttgart, Germany, in 1980 by Werner PILS, a former sales director in the fragrance and cosmetics industry who believed the market lacked truly premium men's grooming products. Long before artisan safety razors became commonplace, PILS was applying industrial design and precision machining to traditional wet shaving. Werner retired in 2003 and sold the company to Micha Birkhoffer, who also came from the fragrance business. Although the exact introduction date remains uncertain, the now famous 101NE appears to have entered the market during Birkhoffer's tenure in the late 2000s. Whatever its exact origins, it has become one of the longest standing designs among modern artisan safety razors and remains instantly recognizable today.

The design itself is unlike anything else currently available. CNC machined from stainless steel, the 104NL is a two-piece razor in which the handle and baseplate remain permanently attached, while the handle rotates freely. As the threaded stud from the top cap engages the baseplate, the handle is simply turned to tighten the assembly. The top cap is equally distinctive, with side flanges that fold neatly over the blade. The alignment posts are located on the baseplate rather than the cap. They hold the blade securely, but the cap must be seated carefully to ensure the blade is clamped evenly.

Architecturally, the 104NL is a classic Edge Clamper with a clamp width of 19 mm. The top cap is also 19 mm wide, leaving a 1.5 mm blade reveal that produces the familiar T shaped profile seen on razors such as the Wolfman. Unlike many razors, however, the baseplate contributes very little additional curvature. Even the bevel near the outer edge remains remarkably flat, allowing the blade to lie almost straight throughout its length. Because the top cap maintains continuous contact with the blade across its full width, rigidity is excellent, with only the faintest trace of blade flutter during the shave.

That blade orientation defines the character of the razor. The 104NL performs best at an exceptionally shallow shaving angle, with the cap at a 15-20% degree angle from the skin and the handle approaching perpendicular to the face. Those who naturally ride the cap will adapt immediately, while shavers accustomed to steeper angles may need several shaves before finding its sweet spot. PILS publishes no technical specifications, but by observation ShaveSplash estimates the blade gap at roughly 0.6 mm with slightly positive blade exposure. Running a piece of cardboard across the shave plane supports that assessment.

The engineering translates directly into the performance scores. The narrow blade gap and restrained exposure bridle Efficiency at 6, but thanks to excellent blade rigidity Comfort earns a 9. Ease of Use also receives a 9. Once the proper angle is found, the razor becomes remarkably forgiving. Consistency scores an 8 because the shallow shaving angle leaves less room for variation than razors with a more neutral geometry. The result is a Composite Score of 32, placing the 104NL toward the upper end of the BBS- category, which corresponds to a 5 on the ShaveSplash nine-point scale.

The comparison that comes most readily to mind is the Karve Overlander. While both razors produce similar shave results, they arrive there through different engineering solutions. The Overlander uses an 18 mm clamp width, but pairs it with a 19.5 mm top cap that extends over the blade to provide additional support and reduce blade reveal to roughly 1.25 mm. Equipped with the 4” inch handle, it weighs 113g, almost identical to the PILS, although its balance feels noticeably more neutral.

Both razors display exceptional machining, beautiful polishing, and forgiving shave characteristics. Both also produce consistently close shaves without demanding perfect technique. The Overlander gradually separates itself in small but measurable ways. Efficiency is slightly higher and, with additional buffing, it can occasionally reach the BBS/BBS- category. Blade support is marginally better, which improves Comfort. Its more balanced weight benefits Ease of Use. Finally, because it naturally encourages a shaving angle closer to thirty degrees, it is easier to shave consistently, giving it a modest advantage in Consistency as well.

The PILS 104NL succeeds because it offers something beyond shave performance. It has an unmistakable personality, combining elegant styling, distinctive engineering, and meticulous craftsmanship into a razor that feels genuinely special every time it is picked up. Enthusiasts who appreciate thoughtful industrial design, precision machining, and the history of modern artisan razors will find much to admire. It could easily become a daily driver for those who enjoy its shallow angle technique. For buyers searching for a single razor where absolute performance is the only priority, ShaveSplash gives a slight edge to the Karve Overlander. For those who appreciate originality as much as results, however, the PILS remains one of the hobby's true classics.

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The Goodfellas’ Smile Dominus is an unusual razor on several fronts, beginning with its material choice. Chrome-plated brass is not especially common in today’s artisan razor market, and TGS goes further by specifying the exact alloy: CW510L PB1, also known as CuZn42. This is a very low-lead brass with a high zinc content and roughly 57–59% copper, a material more often associated with plumbing and fittings than premium safety razors. TGS appears to be emphasizing the environmental angle, noting the alloy’s extremely low lead content of around 0.1%.

The Dominus is billed as 100% CNC-machined and then chrome-plated. Chrome plating is more often associated with zamak razors, but it makes sense here as a protective layer over brass, helping prevent tarnish and corrosion as long as the plating remains intact. The result is a razor with crisp lines and noticeably better tolerances than a die-cast zamak razor, though it still feels just shy of the precision normally associated with uncoated CNC-machined stainless steel or titanium. At 101 grams, the Dominus has satisfying heft and feels nicely balanced.

Architecturally, the Dominus falls into ShaveSplash’s Hybrid category, with a Clamp Width of 13mm. Hybrids sit between classic Blade Benders and Edge Clampers, using some degree of blade curvature while still leaving a meaningful portion of the blade unsupported near the edge. This category tends to produce lower Composite Scores than the more clearly defined classes, and the Dominus largely follows that pattern.

Its most striking design choice is the very narrow top cap. At only 17.5mm wide, it leaves a pronounced Blade Reveal of 2.25mm on each side. The stated Blade Exposure is extremely high at 0.25mm, a level rarely seen in modern safety razors. That positive exposure is visible to the naked eye and can be confirmed by running a thin piece of cardboard along the shave plane. The Blade Gap is also large at 0.85mm, putting both of its major blade specs in the zone normally associated with high efficiency. Interestingly, despite the wasp-stinger reveal, jutting exposure, and formidable gap, blade feel is only moderate. That is likely because so much of the blade is unsupported by the narrow top cap and modest clamp width, allowing the blade to flex rather than present itself as a rigid edge.

Unfortunately, that noticeable blade flex is also what holds the Dominus back. While it helps cushion the exposure against the face, it also reduces cutting authority and can introduce discomfort. Because so much of the blade is revealed and unsupported, the razor performs best at a shallow angle, slightly below the roughly 30-degree angle many consider neutral. The motion feels almost like pushing the blade edge forward in a subtle scything action, trying to keep the edge stable as it cuts. With this technique, a sharp blade is preferred because more of the cutting power needs to come from the blade edge rather than its motion.

Because of the flex and the slightly tricky shallow posture required, both Consistency and Ease of Use suffer. Despite the large 0.85mm Blade Gap and 0.25mm Blade Exposure, raw efficiency is held back by the clearly apparent blade flutter. The end result was on the lower side for ShaveSplash, finishing at DFS+.

Another unusual design choice is that the blade posts are located on the baseplate rather than the top cap. Although the posts are oblong, which should improve blade stability once everything is tightened down, placing them on the baseplate makes blade loading less intuitive. TGS has not explained this choice, but it may relate to the top cap’s extremely light and thin construction. At only 9 grams, the cap may have been designed more as a thin clamping shell than as a structural alignment piece, leaving the baseplate to handle blade alignment. The baseplate is also blind, with no cutouts or lather channels. That is another atypical choice, though in practice lather flow was adequate and there were no obvious signs of clogging.

The razor most similar to the Dominus is the little-known but excellent Rocnel 304. Like the Dominus, the 304 is an odd duck, with a 12mm Clamp Width and an enormous 2.5mm Blade Reveal, the largest ShaveSplash has tested. This is due to its similarly slender 17mm top cap. Where the 304 differs is in its wider 25mm baseplate and noticeably lower blade exposure. Interestingly, the 304 also uses a blind baseplate. The magic of the 304 is that its wider baseplate elongates the shave plane and, somewhat unintuitively, protects the skin from blade flex by keeping exposure low. The result is low efficiency, even lower than the Dominus, but with exceptionally high Comfort and Ease of Use. In fact, the Rocnel 304 remains a ShaveSplash favorite.

If nothing else, the Dominus is an interesting razor. The handle is grippy and well sized at 90mm, the overall build quality is satisfying, and at its price point it feels like a good value. It brings an unusual material, unusual architecture, and a genuinely distinctive shave character. But in a direct comparison with the Rocnel 304, ShaveSplash would choose the latter. The Dominus is more assertive and more technically curious, but the 304 turns its odd geometry into a smoother, easier, and more enjoyable shave.

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The story of the Yaqi Bohemia, based on the Bohin razor, begins in 1833 in Normandy, France, where Benjamin Bohin established the Bohin metalworks. After a century spent producing mainly needles and pins, Bohin turned its attention to the shaving market in the 1930s. But the real prize was not razors. It was blades.

By 1918, Gillette was selling more than 30 million blades per year, a market that must have looked especially attractive to a company built around precision metalworking. To support its move into blades, Bohin filed a patent in 1936 for a proprietary razor design, published the following year. Rather than trying to reinvent the market, Bohin hoped to enter it with something familiar but improved. The razor accepted the standard three hole blade popularized by Gillette, while introducing a number of unusual design ideas of its own. Even the patent title was direct: “An Improved Safety Razor.” The razor appears to have been produced for roughly five to ten years and is now highly prized by collectors. Whether it truly improved upon Gillette’s design is open to debate. What is clear is that Bohin made several bold choices that were both technically adventurous and aesthetically distinctive.

The most innovative aspect of the Bohin was its reversible base plate, which ranks among the earliest, and possibly the very first, of its kind. Each side offered a different level of efficiency, described as “close shave” and “very close shave,” although no published specifications for blade gap or exposure appear to have survived. To make the plate easily reversible, the design remained symmetrical on both sides, and that requirement may also have driven its most visually striking feature: the large, bulbous comb. It is so pronounced that it resembles the baleen of a blue whale.

Open combs are generally intended to increase interaction between the blade and the skin while still providing a degree of protection. The tradeoff is usually greater raw efficiency at some cost to comfort. On most razors, the vertical height of the comb is modest, often around 1 to 2 mm, roughly the depth of a typical base plate. The extraordinary feature of the Bohemia is that its comb rises to an extremely tall 7 mm, creating a tremendous amount of surface area between the razor and the face. The base plate is also unusually wide at 26 mm, compared with roughly 25 mm for many conventional designs, which again keeps the blade farther from the skin. The result is a highly protective geometry, but one that comes with a price. The broad plate and towering comb narrow the usable cutting angle, making the optimal angle of attack somewhat tricky to find and maintain.

Another defining characteristic of the Bohemia is its heft. At 131 g, it feels impressively substantial in the hand. Its mass and density give it a planted, sure footed feel and allow the razor to do much of the work on a typical downward WTG pass. At the same time, that bulk can make it feel somewhat unwieldy, especially when trying to stay within its relatively narrow range of effective cutting angles.

On the 0.95 mm side, efficiency is fairly modest, landing in the region of a 5 or 6 and generally producing results in the DFS+ range. Flip the plate to 1.35 mm, however, and the character changes noticeably, with efficiency rising to an 8. Unlike many designs of the period that fall into the Hybrid category, with clamp widths around 12 mm such as the Merkur 34, Bohin appears to have understood the benefits of a much wider clamp. Perhaps reflecting its metalworking DNA and understanding of metallurgy, Bohin chose a substantial 19 mm clamp width, making the design a strong Edge Clamper by ShaveSplash classification. The result is excellent blade rigidity, which, together with the protective comb and broad base plate, makes Comfort its strongest attribute at 9. The comb, however, is also something of an impediment. Combined with the razor’s girth and narrow cutting window, it makes angle control more demanding and drops Ease of Use to its weakest score of 6. Repeated shaves proved fairly predictable, with Consistency earning an 8 and bringing the Overall Composite Score to 31, squarely in premium razor territory. As for outcomes, a standard three pass WTG, XTG, and ATG shave with a Personna Diamond Gem delivered a respectable BBS/BBS- result, worthy of virtually any occasion, with strong supporting scores outside of Ease of Use.

Despite its quirks, in the eyes of ShaveSplash, the Bohemia and its progenitor, the Bohin, are gems. Bohin occupies a fascinating place in the history of wet shaving, with the company surviving and thriving today even though its razor did not. Yet what makes the design most compelling is its unmistakable French Art Deco elegance. Its curves, proportions, and eye-catching base plate crystallize a moment when wet shaving and men’s grooming were closely associated with cultivation, refinement, and sophistication. Ultimately, it is that beauty, as much as the engineering beneath it, that makes the Bohemia so intriguing and so worthy of a place in the enthusiast’s collection.

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