The Design94 Infinity: More Than Meets the Eye

Teutonblade
9 hours ago
4 min read

Average Result: BBS

Composite Score: 30/40

The Infinity is a bit of an anomaly. Although it shares the same basic architecture as the classic Hybrid design, its efficiency and overall performance tend to be higher than many of the razors that share its common DNA.

The defining attribute of a Hybrid is a clamp width between 12–16mm, the distance measured between the widest points at which the blade is clamped. The classic Hybrid design features two pillars, or ridges, that rise from the base plate to make contact with the top cap and secure the blade. Interestingly, the design first appeared in the UK in 1927, developed by two little-known British inventors, John Henry Morgan and Alfred Stewart Mumme. The design was later sold to Wardonia UK, which appears to have licensed it to Merkur before it eventually evolved into the legendary Model 34. Interestingly, proponents of this design language have largely been concentrated in Germany. In 2007, Mühle, working with Edwin Jagger, introduced a similar architecture with the R89/DE89. Then, in 2014, Giesen & Forsthoff launched the strikingly similar three-piece Timor. Finally, Design94 introduced its first model using the same basic architecture in 2021. All are Hybrids with clamp widths of approximately 12mm.

However, despite sharing the same basic structure of twin pillars and a roughly 12mm clamp width, the Design94 is markedly different from its predecessors. The challenge common to all Hybrids is that, because the blade is clamped roughly halfway between its center and cutting edge, it tends to suffer from flex, or chatter, reducing both efficiency and comfort. This is because the blade is neither supported close to its edge nor bent sufficiently to create rigidity through torsion.

The Design94 also exhibits some noticeable flex, but where it departs from the others is in its much wider blade gap and unique blade exposure. The Design94’s blade gap is a prodigious 1.1mm, a size that usually requires at least a modicum of caution and skill. Although the 34C’s blade gap is not officially published, it is believed to be around 0.70mm, similar to the Timor and Yaqi Orion, while the R89 is estimated at only 0.45mm. But the single biggest difference, and the Infinity’s defining characteristic, is its blade exposure. While the others are all neutral to slightly positive, Design94 publishes an exposure of negative 0.05mm. Or at least, that is what they say.

The feel and efficiency of the Design94 simply do not suggest a razor with negative exposure, and it is ShaveSplash’s contention that, in practice, this is not really the case. On close inspection of the top cap, two raised bumps can be seen that appear to create a flat ribbon designed to control the movement of the head against the skin.

If a straight line is drawn from the top of the bump to the shave guard, the resulting shave plane does indeed appear to place the blade edge behind that line, creating negative exposure.

However, after numerous shaves with the Design94, ShaveSplash does not believe this is the shave plane actually utilized during the shave. The bump may instead force the skin to fold slightly lower, pushing it into the true shave plane created by the broader curvature of the top cap. Therefore, while the geometrically calculated exposure from the top of the hump may be negative, the effective exposure along the functional shave plane is positive, and by no small margin. ShaveSplash would estimate effective exposure at between +0.10 and +0.20mm, placing it in the realm of some famously efficient razors such as the Blackland Blackbird, Tatara Nodachi, Wolfman WR1 0.74, or even the Timeless 0.78.

And herein lies the secret power of the Design94. Its effective exposure is formidable, and when combined with its substantial blade gap, it delivers tremendous shaving power. As a result, its Efficiency is Medium-High, scoring a 9, with an average result of BBS. However, it cannot entirely escape its Hybrid genealogy and the resulting lack of blade rigidity. Comfort noticeably suffers as a result, scoring only a 7. Consistency is sound, with repeatable and predictable results, earning an 8. But the combination of a wide gap, high effective exposure, and noticeable blade flex creates a recipe for mishaps and requires both practice and careful attention, particularly when paired with a sharp blade. Cuts, nicks, and weepers appeared during multiple early test runs, and for this reason Ease of Use was scored at 6. So while the Design94 delivers an impressively close shave, it comes at a price.

Its titanium construction is precise, and its mirror polish is lustrous. At 96g, it feels nimble while still possessing enough weight to feel substantial. Essentially, it is the same razor as Design94’s first titanium edition launched in 2021, which received a Special Mention at the German Design Award in 2022. The aluminum Aviation94 and steel-headed Life series from 2023 share identical head dimensions, with a 1.1mm gap and stated exposure of -0.05mm, although the Infinity is the first to feature a 92mm handle with a new three-sided fluting pattern. In addition, the Infinity is bundled with a matching titanium stand, the first in the series to allow the razor to stand upright.

Hybrid Razor Comparison

Among Hybrids, its Composite Score of 30 is above the class average of 29, and it is one of only two to achieve an average result of BBS or better. The best-performing Hybrids tend to employ trapezoidal head shapes that create additional torsion and rigidity by bending the blade downward to better control flex, as seen in the Maxwell June, Yates Winning, and class-leading Stando Sarmata. Among non-trapezoidal Hybrids, however, the Infinity is the most efficient, and its Composite Score is surpassed only by the Hone Type 15, Rocnel 304, and SV 2.0, all of which emphasize Comfort and Ease of Use over outright Efficiency. For lovers of fine workmanship, innovative design, and a close shave with a healthy growl, the Design94 Infinity should be on the short list.